Nicli’s Next Door: affordable, creative plates with attention to detail
Nicli’s Next Door is one of those places that if you blink you could miss. But you’ll be sorry if you do, because it’s one more very tasty example of what’s driving Gastown’s dining renewal.
No prizes for guessing, it’s right ‘next door’ to pizza emporium Antica Nicli, which effectively spearheaded Vancouver’s ongoing love affair with authentic Neapolitan pizza. However, Nicli’s Next Door has little or nothing to do with pizza, being focused on small bites (‘cicchetti’) as well as a wealth of smartly conceived share plates.
Yes, it’s Next Door
The narrow, red bricked room (which was originally planned as a holding bar for Antica) isn’t actually connected, as it would contravene BC’s still unbelievably out-dated liquor laws. While the award winning pizzeria sports a decidedly modern personality, Nicli’s Next Door revels in its more laid back, red brick surroundings for a warm and cosseting feel. In front of the open kitchen, a long bar (made from reclaimed old growth fir) dominates but also nicely complements the wood and brick used extensively throughout.
I was struck by the care that goes into these dishes, right from our initial taste: a vibrant ‘shooter’ of cold fresh pea soup, with creme fraiche mousse and citrus preserve.
A fun and tasty way to start
Another fun (and filling) taste: the ‘not Scotch egg’, an intricate nod to the icon of British pub fare, with Italian sausage, flor di latte, runny yolk and a smoky egg white aioli.
The Nicli’s Next Door “Not Scotch Egg’: substantial and flavourful
The it was on to ricotta gnocchi, San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, fresh basil, house bread, and plenty more, all offered with smart and affordable wine matches.
More good tastes: ricotta gnocchi with San Marzano tomato, fior di latte and fresh basil
And, lest we forget, a small but suitably seductive list of Dolci …
To finish: hazelnut semifreddo, with berry and caramel gel, chocolate snow and coffee-toffee crumble
What impressed me, overall, was the thought and creativity behind chefs David Tozer’s and Keev Mah’s artfully presented plates, that also deliver good value. (Cicchetti $3-$8; shared ‘Piccoli Piatti’ $8-$14)
To go along, a smart, easy to read wine list, with good by the glass offerings as well as 2 oz. flights, (plus some fun cocktails) with intelligent suggestions from a caring staff.
Nicli’s Next Door blends the best of both worlds. No surprise, it sports its own, distinct personality—a destination neighbourhood room that hums with the buzz of a contented crowd.
Nicli’s Next Door, 68 East Cordova St, 604-669-6985
Please note these plates were tasted a few weeks back and that some items may have changed, according to availability and the season.
Website and full menu here
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