Quails Gate: the story so far

Quails’ Gate Old Vines Restaurant

The Stewart family has a long history in the Okanagan. In 1911, Richard John Stewart and brother, William had recently arrived from Ireland. They established Stewart Brothers Nursery.  Over a century, the business has grown considerably. It supplies trees, shrubs and other items for a clientele now across Western Canada the  U.S.  In 1956 Stewart’s son Richard purchased the Allison Ranch, in Westbank, and planted fruit trees and vines. Richard’s son, Ben Stewart joined the business in the 1980s. The family established Quails’ Gate Estate Winery in 1989. Since Ben Stewart moved into politics the winery has been run by Richard’s other son, Tony.

A major expansion

A 160 acre parecl of the Stewart Brothers nurseries’ operations has now become part of the winery business. Situated across the lake from Quails’ Gate Estate, at 4500 Stewart Road, in South Kelowna, a major transformation is underway. It started two years ago when one side of the family purchased the land from the other. The new vineyard is about one km. west of Tantalus Vineyards. The land has been graded, irrigation lines installed and planting is well underway.

The view from Quails Gate’s new South Kelowna Vineyard

This new property is at an elevation similar to the Westbank estate, although, overall, about 20 metres higher, at an average of 460 m. above sea level. It’s a sloping site, from east to west, with a steeper pitch on the lower western extremity. Here plans call for a gravity fed winery and tasting room. Sweeping views of Lake Okanagan and Kelowna add up to an impressive panorama.

Heading the project is Quails’ Gate Viticulturist Chad Douglas. He hails from an agricultural background in New Zealand. He’s honed his viticultural expertise over 15 years in Central Otago, Europe, and Oregon. Douglas also holds a Masters of Science. His thesis researched the climatic limits of viticulture in New Zealand. Douglas’s laid back but confident style speaks to the careful planning in vineyard layout and planting program.

What’s going in

The rate of planting is about 40 acres a year, with plans for completion by 2021. It remains to be seen what the emphasis will be but there has been some discussion of sparkling wines. The main grapes are Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Most of Quails’ Gate’s existing varieties are going in, including Chasselas and Pinot Blanc and Riesling. No doubt that’s partly to increase volume for their white blend. But it might also free up more fruit from older blocks in the home estate vineyards.

Plans call also for a gravity fed winery to be built on the new vineyard, which enjoys panoramic views of Lake Okanagan and Kelowna.  As yet the venture is un-named but internally referred to as ‘SFE’, as in Stewart Family Estate. It seems likely that ‘Stewart,’ ‘Stewart Brothers’ or some variation, will emerge.

A new winemaker

One person not involved in the project is former Quails’ Gate winemaker Nikki Callaway. She has recently moved to Laughing Stock Vineyards. She’s replaced by Ross Baker, who was her right-hand man during her five-year tenure. Promoting from inside where possible makes more sense than starting afresh with a new individual from outside, says Quails’ Gate. The winery feels Baker is the ideal candidate to continue the standards of quality and consistency that his predecessor forged.

Callaway contributed much to Quails’ Gate, including shining the spotlight on some older, heritage blocks. She was also very much becoming the face of the winery; and leaves some big shoes to fill, as evidenced by these latest reviews.

90 Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2016 (Okanagan Valley)
Hand harvested from 20-year-old vines. Aged 10 months in French oak.  Forward notes of vibrant red fruit and herbal hints.  A juicy, well structured, quite plush palate, with a savoury streak and lengthy close. $26.99

91 Quails’ Gate Richard’s Block Pinot Noir 2016 (Westbank)

From selected estate blocks. Named for winery founder Richard Stewart, who also planted some the valley’s first Pinot. A blend of four hand-picked, classic Dijon clones, vinified separately. Aromas of dark berries, earthy and savoury notes supported by measured oak. Elegant, silky and well-integrated tannins allow freshness and acidity to shine through. $54.99

91 Quails’ Gate Chardonnay 2016 (Westbank)
All estate grown fruit. Mainly stainless steel fermented, yields vibrant orchard and stone fruits. A balanced palate of pear, peach and apple enjoys extra body from partial neutral oak. With oak in check, the fruit prevails, perked up by freshness and juicy acidity through the close. Excellent value at $22.99

92 Quails’ Gate Rosemary’s Block Chardonnay 2016 (Westbank)
A salute to the winery’s founding matriarch. Aromas of orchard fruit and almond with a generous palate of apple and pear notes. Toasty, well-integrated oak, with a streak of minerality and a still fresh, lengthy end. $44.99

93 Quails’ Gate Riesling BMV 2017 (Westbank)

Late-picked, from Boucherie Mountain Vineyard, yielded higher residual sugar and fruit expression. Stone fruit on top followed by a luscious but still elegant entry. Excellent structure and mouthfeel from two months in neutral French oak. Bursting with flavours of green apple skin and lemon-lime, lingering citrus and apple finish. A tribute to a 1980s wine made at Kelowna’s Jordan & Ste-Michelle with fruit from the same vineyard. $29.90

92 Quails’ Gate Lucy’s Block Rosé 2017 (East Kelowna

A single vineyard blend 85% Pinot Meunière and 15% Pinot Noir, from Westpoint Vineyard. Cold soaked on the skins overnight to yield a medium salmon colour. Up front strawberries, cranberry and red berry fruits. Elegantly balanced fruit and acidity, a pleasing savoury edge mid-palate, with good length, dry close and a hint of lingering spice. $24.99

93 Quails’ Gate Shannon Pacific Viognier 2016 (Black Sage Bench)

Aromas of jasmine and orange blossom, with some chalky hints. A fresh, clean entry precedes superb balance of fruit and acidity, defined by citrus, stonefruit with a touch of ginger, and mineral. Expands to an elegantly textured mouthfeel from judicious neutral oak before a persistent, spicy end.  $23.99

Quails’ Gate’s impressive lakeside vineyard panorama

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I’ll return to the ‘place and people’ reference shortly. But, first, I think it’s important to put Sea Star’s achievements into perspective. This relative newcomer is emblematic of what can be achieved in a Gulf Islands winery.

As someone familiar with Gulf island life, I have no illusions about what it takes to succeed. The challenges are significant, from finding and keeping skilled labour to reliance on ferries. Not to mention the added costs at every turn.

A star is born

Sea Star arose from the ashes of valiant but long-struggling Morning Bay, established in 2003. After buying and improving the winery, Sea Star made its first vintage in 2013.

Owner David Goudge and wine-maker Ian Baker quickly turned things around.  As the former winemaker at Mistaken Identity on close-by Salt Spring Island, Baker brought with him strong local knowledge. Before that, he was an award-winning amateur winemaker.

A few coastal wineries source Okanagan grapes to flesh out their range. Bordeaux varieties, in particular, tend not to ripen on the coast. Occasionally they make a second tier after their estate wines.  These days, though, with an assist from climate change, the ‘islands’ focus overall is more local. While the first decade of the new millennium proved challenging, a string of good vintages since has helped the coastal wineries.

The coastal advantage

In a recent interview for Sip magazine, (watch for their new guide!) Baker told me he doesn’t want to mimic wines from other regions. He says it took him a while to learn the differences between working with coastal and Okanagan grapes. In particular, the higher acidity on the coast can prove challenging. But, he suggests, handled properly, it also offers an immense benefit.

“We don’t wind up with flabby wines. Now we embrace the acidity. In fact, I’d rather work with coastal grapes than Okanagan grapes any day,” says Baker.

It’s true. There is a common theme to these wines. They all enjoy a discernible freshness and purity of fruit—balanced by just the right acidity. Baker seems to have found the ‘sweet spot’ between populist appeal and technical excellence.

Their sights set on using mainly estate and local fruit, Sea Star’s early success soon found them seeking other sources, including from Pender’s nearby Clam Bay Farm.

Last year’s purchase of long-neglected Saturna Island Vineyards promises to take things to the next level. Just across the channel, the 77 acre Saturna property includes 44 acres under vine. With its Pender vineyards, that makes Sea Star the largest estate winery on BC’s coast.

Much of Sea Star’s strength lies in its consistent house style, founded on cool climate wines. They include Germanic aromatics, such as Ortega and Siegerebbe, which perform well in the right conditions. Baker has also proved himself to be an astute blender, making quite layered and more complex wines out of varieties often dismissed by the mainstream.

Saturna Island vineyards: a formidable addition to Sea Star

A little local history

I have a special connection to Saturna Island. Years ago, a dear friend bought a small home there, to which I was invited often. That was my introduction to the Gulf Islands. And it proved to be the foundation of a lifelong love affair.

Here the connection relates to Jean-Luc Bertrand. He was the original owner of Vancouver’s Le Gavroche restaurant, later co-owned with Manuel Ferreira.

In the mid-1990s Jean-Luc was looking for other challenges. The quality of BC wines was on the rise and the French restaurateur even had a few on his wine list. That would have been unthinkable even a decade before. One day Jean-Luc was discussing the fortunes of the BC wine industry with lawyer Larry Page, a regular lunchtime diner. Page knew of an opportunity to develop a winery and real estate venture on Saturna Island. Plans progressed. And not long after, Bertrand took leave from the restaurant—to study viticulture overseas.

After his return in 1995 Jean-Luc hand planted the first two of Saturna’s vineyards before passing away in 1997. Over the next decade or so Saturna Vineyards struggled. It transitioning through several winemakers, as well as some challenging vintages. But it never showed real promise of meeting its potential. That is, until now.

Sea Star’s Leap of Faith

After buying Saturna, Sea Star went to work immediately, restoring vineyards neglected for years. They wasted little time in wrangling at least something from the incredibly overgrown vines. A considerable quantity of Pinot Noir was harvested for this latest vintage. 

The Saturna vineyards had been neglected for several years

The Saturna site may pose some challenges but also yields not a few opportunities. The contrasting aspects of the two properties offer some interesting winemaking options. 

“It appears to me that the founders of Saturna dreamed big and didn’t take the time to have the benefit of experimentation,” says Goudge.

“So I am doing the opposite. Slow, pragmatic decisions based on observations of what is happening in the vineyards they planted, opportunities that present themselves, and market forces,” he adds.

David comments on the 2017 Saturna crop as follows…

“To date we harvested a large section of Pinot Noir last October. The grapes had no disease issues despite being abandoned for 5 years. That is a remarkable indicator that the terroir is going to be terrific for these grapes. We were able to harvest 9 tons that all went into our Blanc de Noir. Now that they have been pruned back to the crowns we won’t obtain any fruit from them this year, but next year the grapes will be grown in the fruit zone and hopefully ripen further than last year when we couldn’t even reach some way above our heads.”

Saturna Pinot Noir vineyard post pruning

“We also properly pruned the Pinot Gris. These 2 varietals make up the largest portion of the vineyard. We have more modestly pruned the Chardonnay and other varietals that were showing less vigour.”

Looking ahead

Future plans for Saturna get even more interesting… 

“Going forward we will likely continue to use some Pinot Noir for our Blanc de Noir, and add to our Pinot Noir itself, plus use some of the Pinot Gris for our Pinot Gris,” he explains.

“Our facility on Pender has reached maximum capacity, so we will be licensing the winery on Saturna and this is where we will explore making sparkling wines. (The previous owners) planted a lot of varietals that are perfect for this production including Pinot Meunier apart from the ones I’ve already mentioned.”

From a tourism and hospitality standpoint, Saturna has a turnkey bistro in place. Not to mention a dock, right across from Sea Star. With two spectacular settings, there’s potential for unique ocean and winery touring. And a strong likelihood that these stunning properties will evolve as tourism anchors.

Saturna — just a short hop across the water from Sea Star

Sea Star has already overcome odds as the first Gulf Island winery to make its mark on the Lower Mainland. The lesson here is that the winery concentrates on those proven varieties that work. Its small production sells out quickly. But the wines are available on several noteworthy Vancouver wine lists. They epitomize a style of wine that pairs perfectly with regional ingredients, such as salmon, shellfish, and other seafood.

The 2017 wines continue to impress. Sea Star has claimed its place as one of the most consistent, across the board quality producers in the province.

Sea Star’s idyllic setting on North Pender Island (image supplied)

Sea Star Blanc de Noir 2017

Made from 100 percent Pinot Noir (including from some of those 20-year-old Saturna Island vines). Whole cluster pressed, with lovely pale salmon in the glass. Vibrant, lifted red berries and tropical hints precede generous strawberry and cherry. Excellent fruit to acid balance with a luscious but structured mid palate. Edged by an appealing nudge of tartness. 92 pts. $24

Sea Star Salish Sea 2017

This blend of Ortega and Siegerrebe, made from organically grown grapes on Pender Island,  captures the very essence of Sea Star. Inviting aromatics on the nose, citrus, tropical and orchard notes on top. A generous but well-tuned palate, wrapped in a generous mouthfeel. Hints of honey with spice and mineral notes through a lengthy finish. 93 pts. $24

Sea Star Stella Maris 2017

A blend of Gewürztraminer and Pinot Noir, with Pinot Gris, Riesling, Ortega and Schönberger. Upfront stone fruit and floral notes. A quite complex palate sports tropical tones of nectarine, citrus and peach. Layered with a touch of zest and spice before a juicy end. 92 pts. $24

Sea Star Ortega 2017

Government-funded trials in the 1980s found this variety well suited to the islands, along with Pinot Gris and Pinot Auxerrois. Beautifully expressive, showing floral and citrus-orange blossom aromas. A luscious, tropical toned palate of grapefruit, peach and melon with a juicy mid-palate and clean, fresh close. 91 pts, $22

Sea Star Pinot Gris 2017

A ‘Gris’ with true character. Stone fruit, citrus and tropical fruits up front. A luscious, well-textured palate of pear and melon with a gentle zesty edge, a touch of spice and a lingering end. 92 pts. $23

Sea Star Siegerebbe 2017

This classic cool climate variety is becoming a fixture in what used to called ‘borderline’ regions. It was one of the most successful from both the Okanagan Becker Project and the Vancouver Island Duncan trials. From Clam Bay Farm. floral, a touch of rose petal (perhaps from the Gewurz. cross) plus citrus and spice followed by a well structured, expressive palate of tropical, grapefruit and peach with a long end. 92 pts. $22

Getting there

Traveling to Pender Island (especially in high summer) requires planning and (if driving) a BC Ferries reservation—or your own boat! Ferries depart from Tsawwassen on the mainland and from Swartz Bay, near Victoria, on Vancouver Island. Currently, former Saturna Vineyards is not open to the public.

The post BC’s Coastal Pacesetter, Sea Star Looks to the Future appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Tap & Barrel CEO Daniel Frankel (l) and City of North Vancouver Mayor Darrell Mussatto cut the ribbon

With 400 outside and 350 in, for a total of 750 licenses seats, Tap & Barrel Shipyards is the biggest restaurant in Western Canada. With this latest expansion the restaurant more than lives up to its name. The west side patio at the foot of Lonsdale sports a full outdoor bar—with 52 taps. My guess is there’s likely the same number inside.  The patio stretches from the foot of Lonsdale to the promenade, almost at the water’s edge. A raised south deck makes the panorama even more impressive. From here you can take in the harbour action, enjoy views of downtown  and bask in the sun reflected off the water. Hint: bring a hat or wear sunscreen.

Tap, Tap, Tap – Opportunity Knocks

CEO Daniel Frankel, the man behind Tap & Barrel, grew up in the restaurant business. Years ago he joked to me that he got fired from one of his first summer jobs. He was selling ice cream at Prospect Point Café. His boss was his father, George Frankel! He was also a founder and co-owner of Bridges.

Some folks may recall that until the ’80s there was no such thing as a licensed patio in Vancouver. When I arrived it was illegal to be able to seen drinking from the street. In fact the Sylvia Hotel had the best ocean view in town. The only problem was you couldn’t see it from the bar: the windows were frosted amber.

George Frankel was a trailblazer. He realized Vancouver’s potential—once it grew up and could took full advantage of its spectacular setting. He and his co-owners at Bridges fought hard to establish that legendary, giant patio. In the end, an obstinate bureaucracy conceded.

The son struck out on his own. Taking a leaf out of his father’s book, he opened the Mill Marine Bistro in 2003. He’s since gone on to open several other restaurants. It’s an evolution that culminated in Tap & Barrel, at three locations (for now).

Location, Location, Location

Tap & Barrel’s Daniel Frankel hoists a pint from the 52 tap outdoor bar

Frankel has demonstrated a knack for landing in the right place at the right time. He opened the inaugural Tap & Barrel when Athletes’ Village was essentially a dead zone. Its primary development was mired in controversy. But Frankel figured the area would soon blossom—and was right. Nobody else had envisioned a dazzling downtown skyline across False Creek at night. Or fully anticipated the busy inner city seawall.  When the Vancouver Convention Centre spot at opened up, it looked more than promising. Plus, the  Olympic flame  turned Jack Poole Plaza into a minor tourist attraction. And the view isn’t half bad …

Tap & Barrel was quick to commit to the Shipyards project, that’s now transformed Lower Lonsdale. Right across from the restaurant is the breathtaking new Polygon Gallery. Lonsdale Quay Market and the Sea Bus are just west. With more people moving in every year, it’s a happening place.

Tap & Barrel: Bye Bye Bottles

I’ve followed Tap & Barrel with interest. They were the first in Vancouver to adopt wine on tap on a large scale. Actually, Frankel initially put eight wine taps into Mill Marine Bistro. Tap & Barrel Athletes Village opened with 14 wines on tap and 24 BC craft beers. Kegs turned over faster than anyone expected.

The FreshTap system paid off in many ways. Not only did it allow people to try a variety of wines. It almost completely eliminated spoilage, did away with most bottles, and reduced  carbon footprint. Now, Shipyards has the most taps yet. And, as with the other locations, it’s a firm supporter of all things BC.

Flights of whatever you fancy from BC

I get a kick out of similarities that still hark back to the old Bridges Pub. It was furnished with found industrial items. That fill well with the area’s history. (And was pretty edgy for the time …). Similarly, Shipyards is ingeniously decorated with heavy machinery, beams and corrugated cladding.

Inside, well stocked with taps—and lots of cool industrial touches

All pay tribute to Lower Lonsdale’s past. The refurbishment of the century-old building used about 85 percent reclaimed materials. Not to mention state of the art exhaust systems,  LED lighting, grey water systems and more.

Next up on Frankel’s to-do list is the mid June reopening of the former Steel Toad, as a stand alone brewery and beer hall. It will be a separate entity from Tap & Barrel. Though, no doubt, the beers will show up.  He also plans to collaborate with other local breweries—and is also working on a Cannabis brew.

The City of North Vancouver water feature is already a popular draw

As I left the patio opening to catch SeaBus back downtown, the newly activated City of North Vancouver water feature was already hopping with kids.  ‘Just like the water park beside Mill Marine Bistro” (now Tapshack), I thought. ‘Already a people place’—with Tap & Barrel right there.

And that… is no coincidence.

TAP & BARREL SHIPYARDS

604-638-2339

8 LONSDALE AVENUE • NORTH VANCOUVER • V7L 0B2

tapandbarrel.com

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Or maybe you should.

I’m truly pleased to see the return of Buy BC, especially with a dining focus. In fact, I never understood why one of the province’s most successful promotions ever met its demise. A few years back, I guess someone felt it had run its course and was no longer needed.

Wrong! One thing I’ve learned is to never take anything for granted. And that goes for the incredible local bounty that we enjoy. It’s a drum I’ve been beating for a while now.

We need to constantly remind ourselves: our local food (and wine) scene is far more than just a happy coincidence. It’s the sum of achievements by countless visionaries. Our dining scene has flourished thanks to farmers, growers, winery owners small and large, and many others, all willing to take the risk.

There was a time when Vancouver was bordering on a dining wasteland. Yes, there was a handful of better. ‘Continental’ dining rooms. But it was just a handful. And God help you if you didn’t know which knife to use …

Not to belittle any of those plucky (mainly Europeans) who brought ‘serious’ dining to Terminal City. To a great degree, they laid the groundwork of what we have today. But for me, there really was no such thing as ‘regional cuisine’ until the birth of the modern BC wine industry.

A few early ‘BC first’ pioneers come to mind. There was ill-fated Cherrystone Cove. And Sinclair and Fredérique Philip trail-blazed truly local foraging at Sooke Harbour House. Sinclair was already actively promoting the wonders of the BC coast in New York.

Yet, I’ll never forget the astonishment that greeted the opening of Janice Lotzkar’s The Raintree. It was arguably the first Vancouver restaurant to embrace all things BC. And not only survive but flourish. But the consensus in 1989 was: who in their right mind would even consider serving only BC wine? And why would anyone care whether their lamb was from Salt Spring or New Zealand?

Lotzkar proved the critics wrong. She was in that small vanguard. Also, among the first in Vancouver to identify on the menu the source of every main item. She figured a handful of BC wineries were about to blossom. And bravely vowed to support them.

Let’s not forget some of the other pioneers—like (also gone) Raincity Grill—often confused with the Raintree.

The original Buy BC was actually born of those early food and wine promotions. They brought the idea of regional cuisine to Vancouverites back in the early 1990s. The first that I recall was the BC Wine Institute’s Salmon & Pinot Blanc: A Marriage Made in BC.  Yes, it was a long time ago. So long ago, in fact, that Pinot Blanc was still the most planted white variety in the Okanagan.

That program was significant. (It was the brainchild of then BCWI executive director Christine Coletta.)  Important to this day, it was the first Vancouver promotion that paired BC food and wine. Restaurants teamed up with wineries and prepared special salmon dishes. A novel idea, it was a struggle. But in the end it proved successful—and the forerunner to many more.

Buy BC Redux

Agathe Mathieu and Daughter Chrystelle from Tao Organics

Buy BC: EAT DRINK LOCAL comes hot on the heels of BC Wine Month, which make total sense. The promotion runs throughout May. It’s intended to reinforce the community of local chefs, farmers, wineries, breweries and distilleries.

Restaurants of all kinds around the province are participating. You can check them out at EatDrinkLocal.ca

They range from all organic, plant-based Tao Organics to Fishworks, Bridge Brewing and Provence Marinaside, in Vancouver, as well as establishments around the province, from Raudz Regional Table in Kelowna to Prince Rupert’s Ocean Wise Fukasaku, among many.

Buy BC Tacos and brews at Bridge Brewing

 The criteria to get involved in Buy BC vary but overall add up practical support of BC products.

“It’s about celebrating the diversity of BC offerings at different price points and in different styles,” says BCRFA president and CEO Ian Tostenson.

“Depending on the restaurant, the offerings will differ. But the commitment to buying BC and showcasing local flavours is at the core of every participating venue,” he says.

“When we hear of unique partnerships or BC crops you never knew about, Buy BC: EAT DRINK LOCAL will share those stories through our @EatDrinkBuyBC social media and website platforms.”

Buy BC: EAT DRINK LOCAL adds up to a great way to celebrate our regional cuisine.

The campaign is a joint initiative between the Ministry of Agriculture and the BC Restaurant and Food Services Association (BCRFA). For more information visit eatdrinklocal.ca

This is a year round resource for those who support BC farmers, producers, harvesters and growers.

This post is supported in part by Buy BC

#BuyBC #BCTastesBetter

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The panel was moderated by Barbara Philip MW. Ms. Philip is Canada’s first and, to date, only female Master of Wine. She’s also the European category manager and senior buyer for BC Liquor Stores. And is the wine columnist on CBC Radio One’s On The Coast. Philip is a regular judge at the Decanter awards, held annually in London, England.

This tasting was a bit of a departure from the norm for some wine tastings, which can be a tad formulaic. Particularly interesting was the dynamic between the panelists—mainly winemakers—and Ms. Philip. She’s well known for her ease of communication, which makes her a natural for radio. More important, she has a natural ability to interpret the more technical aspects of winemaking for the ‘regular’ consumer. 

How do winemakers feel about awards?

For these reasons and more, this turned out to be a fun and informative tasting on many levels. Not only did it offer the winemakers a chance to talk about how they view competitions. It also gave the audience the opportunity to gauge their own palates beside the Decanter judges’ choices.

There was consensus among the panelists that there’s no substitute for recognition from Decanter. 

“Living on the edge of the world is a two-edged sword,” says Stoneleigh Global Wine Ambassador Jim Robertson. 

“We don’t want to get cellar palates, so we are always looking for the benchmark. We try to compete against the very best in their respective categories, to be judged by the broadest gathering of global palates.”

“Decanter is now a global brand and the leverage of an award is very important,” said Robertson. 

An opportunity for new regions

From Uruguay, Bodega Garzón ambassador winemaker Maria Mele Sosa jokes: “The one thing we share in common with Canada is that the rest of the world doesn’t know we produce wine.”

Her Bodega Garzón 2016 Reserva Albariño won Platinum. Fellow panelist and Spanish luminary Miguel Torres was complimentary towards the South American entry. 

“I like the minerality and fresh acidity,” he said. It has more texture and body than some Spanish wines. It’s a good expression of the variety—so congratulations!”

“Every year we fly to London to taste Canadian wines,” says Philip. 

“It can be very emotional, as people are very curious to see what’s happening in Canada.”

(That rings true to me. I was lucky to be among the vanguard who went to London in 1997 to pour at the reopening of Canada House. It marked the beginning of Canadian wines gaining recognition in the UK.)

The pressure to win…

Quails Gate winemaker Nicky Callaway says the pressure to win a medal is never far away.

“We’re our own worst enemies. I will think: did I hit on the right day?,” says the winemaker.

“We’re always losing sleep wondering if it’s the best representation possible. How will I know that this wine will actually stand up against the rest of the world and be recognized?”

Then again, she asks, how come you can win at one competition and earn little to no recognition at an other?

Philip suggests that Decanter tends more towards old world styles. However, it’s important to note that Decanter is sensitive to regional tastes. The competition always employs head judges from the regions or countries being assessed.

“However, wine tasting is not a perfect science,” she says.

An international benchmark

“For a new region to be able to be judged by Decanter is a way of accelerating being accepted into the world of wine,” suggests Robertson. CedarCreek winemaker Taylor Whelan agrees.  “Decanter allows us to be judged against international wines, which makes us feel confident about scores,” he says. “It’s important for us in a much broader context.”

There’s no question that Decanter World Wine Awards are of significant value— to both consumers and winemakers. This range of wines was impressive. But it was also interesting to note that, while there were some ‘icons’, at least a few were relatively inexpensive. While they may have won serious trophies they’re not necessarily made as ‘trophy’ wines.

Overall, truly, this was a worthwhile exercise, with a good balance of wine knowledge shared in a great display of camaraderie between winemakers.

Decanter award winning wines poured:

Stoneleigh Wild Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Rapaura, New Zealand (Gold)

Single appellation, wild yeast fermented, with citrus and passionfruit up front. A well textured stone fruit palate and lengthy close. Pleasingly esoteric in style.

Bodega Garzón Reserva Albariño 2016, Maldonado, Uruguay (Platinum)

From Uruguay’s star winery, this wine won Best South American White. Clear, fruit expression with orchard and floral notes. A definite streak of grapefruit and lemon zest, supported by good acidity and length.

Quails’ Gate Winery Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay 2013, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia (Gold)

Vibrant gold in the glass, vanilla and butterscotch precedes a creamy palate. Generous mouthfeel and viscosity balanced by solid acidity.

 CedarCreek Estate Winery Platinum Block 4 Pinot Noir 2014, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia (Silver)

From a select block above the west side of Okanagan Lake. Partially fermented in concrete and stainless steel. Up front dark cherry and earthy notes. A more full bodied style from a warmer vintage, wrapped in assertive tannins. Lots of promise for cellaring. 

Rocca delle Macìe Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Sergio Zingarelli DOCG 2013, Tuscany, Italy (Gold)

Red berry aromas, earthy and mushroom notes, plush and rounded with intense cherry and leather notes. Fresh acidity and tannins with a savoury edge, spice notes and lengthy close.

Undurraga T.H. (Terroir Hunter) Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Maipo Valley, Chile (Silver)

Intense mulberry, cassis and black fruit with good depth and texture. Hefty but still balanced, some mineral hints, underpinned by chewy tannins before a spicy end.

Torres Mas la Plana 2012, Penedès, Spain (Platinum)

Miguel Torres says this ‘iconic’ wine is a “a good trick to pour in a blind lineup with Bordeaux—except it tastes like Spain!” Old vine Cabernet Sauvignon dating from the 1960s and 70s. Up front black fruits with olive hints. A generous and ripe palate with vanilla hints, a savoury note with herbaceous undertones and a lingering, layered and complex close.

Palacios Remondo La Montesa Rioja Crianza 2014, Rioja, Spain (Gold)

Organically farmed blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Mazuelo from high altitude vines (c. 600m.). Some of the highest plantings in Rioja. Up front ripe cherry and raspberry. A fresh and luscious well balanced palate with balanced acidity and lasting spice and vanilla notes.

Álvaro Palacios Les Terraces Garnacha blend 2015, Priorat, Spain (Gold)

Blend of 55% Garnacha, 45% Cariñena from about 22 kms. inland. From small lot growers around Priorat. Up front red and black fruit with some stony hints. On the palate, plum and cassis, with well integrated tannins and moderate acidity through a solid end. “A nice door into Priorat,” says Alvaro.”

Adega de Borba Senses Petit Verdot 2014, Alentejo, Portugal (Gold)

From shiste and stony soils in Alentejo, 100 percent Petit Verdot. Up front floral and black fruit. A well balanced palate of mocha and cassis, vanilla and oak spice with approachable, fine tannins and a lengthy close. An interesting departure from more usual Portuguese varieties. This sparked a brief discussion as to the place of indigenous compared to ‘new world’ or ‘international’ varieties within the domestic context. An excellent varietal expression.

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On reflection, I’ve concluded that this change presents both challenges and opportunities. (I’ve been privileged to have judged at the ‘LG’s’ since Day One. You’ll find a few reports on this site from past years.)

The principal reason for the change made by Government House is as follows.  The program has been immensely successful. It’s also far outgrown its original intent and capacity. As the number of wineries multiplied, the volume of entries increased exponentially. This represented a considerable cost in both dollars and people power. In short, something had to give.

The main points…

• The BC Wine Awards, under the auspices of the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society, will manage and carry the costs of the judging.  It rebrands as The British Columbia Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards

• Wines entered must be 100 percent BC grown and made by a licensed BC winery.

• The Premier’s Award will become the Lieutenant Governor’s Award for the Best Wine in BC

• The Platinum Award will become  the Lieutenant Governor’s Platinum Award. A maximum of 15 wines will be awarded in a given year.

• The Lieutenant Governor will still endeavour to present the awards in person. No doubt the Consular Corps will continue to tag along, in what has become a popular tradition.

• There will be a formal dinner and recognition for the winners at Government House.

Glasses arranged for the final round of judging

Pros & Cons

There was no question in my mind that the original contest (started in 2003), truly, was a one of a kind. Few wine competitions anywhere were as challenging, for both entrants and judges. The odds of a wine being selected were somewhere around 40 to one. I would add that the spirit of generosity and consensus on the judging panels was also noteworthy. It proved to be a critical part of the competition’s success.

Marjorie King—wine judging organizer par excellence—has to date run both panels. The good news is she will continue in her role.

The new ‘LG’s Award’ will carry a little less cachet, in that entire BC Wine Awards (including gold, silver and bronze medals) has been rebranded. However, maybe the added prestige will attract some who felt the BC Wine Awards didn’t previously merit their entries. A ‘BC LG’s Platinum Award’ will remain a considerable achievement. Not to mention a visit from the LG herself.

The BC Wine Awards charges an entry fee. ($99 plus GST per wine, for non society members.) That may present a challenge to smaller wineries, especially those who had become used to no fee. However, it’s important to note, this year, first timers may submit one bottle free of charge. This applies to any winery who has not previously entered the BC Wine Awards. I would suggest strongly that smaller wineries across the province who feel they have a high quality, prospective winner in their lineup not miss this chance to still enter a wine at no charge.

Fort Berens, in Lillooet, in 2014, was an ’emerging regions’ winner

The Spirit of the Lieutenant Governor’s Awards

It’s no secret. BC’s emerging regions have had a tough time winning at the LG’s. But  a handful of wineries outside the Okanagan have succeeded. With increased awareness, each year the the signs were more positive.

The Okanagan likely will always be the dominant wine region—by sheer numbers. However, as years go by, those other areas are emerging, with differing styles, varieties and merits. My hope is that the new organisers will firmly embrace the spirit of the original Lieutenant Governor’s Awards. That this is, indeed, a  province wide quest for excellence.

The post Lieutenant Governor’s Wine Awards Moves to the Okanagan appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Unless, of course, you come well prepared.

(Psst! If you don’t have a ticket, enter my draw for two free tix to the sold out Friday evening International Festival Tasting…)

This year’s combined theme region of Spain and Portugal offers the chance to taste a much broader range of wine styles than usual. That’s great news. But it also presents its own set of tasting room challenges.

When you think Spain and Portugal your mind probably goes right to red. Not so fast. There’s a few interesting whites to be discovered from both countries. So allow yourself some time for that. My plan is: Taste a few whites, then do the heavy lifting on the reds. Then a refreshing flight of Cava (there’s more than a few!) before I head into a final round of Ports and Sherries.

While this year’s spotlight is on Iberia, don’t overlook the strong presence from both Italy and California, as well as the ‘home team,’ BC.

Here’s how to really make the most of your #VIWF tasting room time.

Courtesy VIWF

1. Make a plan

See above. Before you go, download this year’s Tasting Room Guide from https://vanwinefest.ca/2018-tasting-room-program/

Make a short list of what you want to taste and who you’d like to meet. Maybe there’s a theme that pops up. For instance, I like Tawny Port, so here’s a great opportunity; there’s a healthy slew of them here to try. Not to mention a bunch of serious Cava.

Also, don’t overlook the convenience of the Regional Tasting Stations. They’re a really efficient way to quickly taste a range of wines. And get a quick refresher from what makes a region tick. This year’s stations are: Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and Spain. Especially if you’re new to wine, when it comes to Spain, you might want to head there for a primer before tackling the spotlight tables.

2. Track down the principals

The wine festival calls them ‘wine stars’. And they truly are. Here’s one of the few consumer tastings anywhere where the chances are the person behind the table is the owner or winemaker. Make a point of talking to them. You can learn a lot in a short time. And have the pleasure of that personal connection.

3. Make notes

No, you don’t have to make fancy notes and get all wine-speak geeky. But it does help if you even quickly score (maybe out of three stars) what you like. Grab a quick pic on your phone. Or, even, just circle what you like on your program.

4. Buy wine

Well, why wouldn’t you buy wine? A lot of the tasting room wines are here only for the duration of the festival. Figure out ahead of time how much you want to spend as you exit through the festival store. Plus, if you buy a case of wine, BC Liquor Stores will ship it free of charge to your local BCLS store to pick up later. Watch out for the ‘Buy the Case’ wines at the tasting room table, where you can order it to be shipped right there—without even having to worry about the store. Not a bad plan, especially if you find something you love.

5. Think outside the box

You don’t walk into a room of 700 wines to taste what you already know. Be adventurous—especially this year. Revel in the selection! Celebrate the many shades of Sherry! Pamper yourself with Port. Taste broadly, quickly and smartly. There’s so much to discover!

6. Tasting room etiquette

Be courteous and aware. Don’t hog the scene. Once you have your pour, step back from the table, and let others taste. Successful wine tasting is all about being able to get around the room easily.

7. Eat before you go

Even though you’ll be spitting (see below), you’ll still absorb a fair amount of alcohol. Don’t hit the tasting room on an empty stomach. Or it will hit you! Plan to eat ahead of time. There’s no shortage of nearby spots from which to choose. I like the TC Lions Pub, Cactus Club, Hapa Izakaya and Nightingale, among several options.

8. Take cabs or free transit

Don’t even think about tasting and driving. Get your free Safe Ride Home Ticket from the BC Transit booth right outside the Tasting Room. Or, if you want to avoid the taxi rush at the end, kill some time with your notes over a coffee or perhaps a cleansing ale.

9. Dress for real

First of all, it’s not a fashion show. (Well, except maybe Saturday night ;-)… Wear comfortable shoes and perhaps a jacket with big pockets. Bring a shoulder bag for your program and tasting sheets you might pick up. Oh, and no after shave or perfume, please.

10. Spit, spit and spit again…

The more you spit… the more it becomes second nature. Even though you might be tempted to swallow the odd wine it’s best not to. Be firm: “Swirl, Sniff, Sip and Spit” is what it’s all about. If you want to make it to the end, spitting—that’s everything—is the only way to go.

Follow me @hiredBelly on Twitter and Instagram  —and on Facebook. I’ll be tweeting and posting my finds at several tastings during the week. Many, if not most, of those wines will be in the tasting room, so you can include them in your plan.

And don’t forget to sign up for the free tasting room tix draw!

An Iberian (long) short list

Here’s my basic ‘hit list’ that I’d suggest for Portugal & Spain.

Like I said, don’t forget the whites. Also, just because I’ve singled out one wine to try in particular doesn’t mean you shouldn’t taste others at the table. (In addition, you can check my previous post for more recommendations.)

My plan for the festival (Thursday through Saturday) is actually to taste everything from Spain and Portugal—and plenty more. Stay tuned …

A selection of wines from Sanguinhal

Portugal

Aveleda (Reserva Familia Alvarinho)

Caves Messias Qa. do Penedo (Dao White, Encruzado?)

Companhia / Sanguinhal (Qa. de Cerejeiras Branco 16)

Global Wines (Cabriz Reserva Encruzado 2016)

Niepoort (Dialogo Branco)

Quinta do Crasto (Old Vines Reserva 2014)

Fonseca (10 Year Old Tawny)

Herdade Paço Do Conde Vilares (Private Selection Reserva 2011)

Quinta Vale D. Maria (Douro Tinto 2014)

Ramos (20 Year Old Tawny)

Real / Velha. (Qa. Carvalhas Touriga Nacional 2014)

Sogrape (Sandeman 20 Year Old Tawny)

Symington (Warre’s Vintage Port 1985)

Symington (Graham’s 20 Year Old Tawny)

Taylor Fladgate (20 Year Old Tawny)

Vicente Faria (Gloria Reserva 2015)

Spain

Alvaro Palacios (Priorat 2016)

Arinzano (La Casona 2010)

Bodegas Alvear (PX Solera 1927)

Bodegas Ateca (Garnacha Old Vines 2014)

Cellers Baronia Monstsant (Clos d’Englora AV14 2009)

Vins Bonhomme (Organic Monastrell Jumilla 2016)

Campo Viejo (Gran Reserva 2011)

Familia Castano (Casa Cisca)

CVNE (Cune Gran Reserva 2011)

Grupo Faustino (Gran Reserva 2005)

Freixenet (Casa Sala Brut Nature 2007)

Bodegas Juan Gil (Organic Monastrell 2016)

Juvé & Camps (Reserva de la Familia 2014)

Lustau (Puerto Fino)

Bodega de Moya (Maria Bobal 2015)

Marques de Murrieta (Dalmau Rioja Tinto Reserva 2013)

Pares Balta (Gratavinum)

Segura Viudas (Heredad Brut Reserva)

Torres (Mas la Plana 2012)

Bodegas Valdemar (Inspiracion 2012)

That’s all for now. I’ll have more picks from other countries as the week progresses…

The post 10 Tips for #VIWF Tasting Room Success appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

This is a fun filled and tasty, almost end of winter escape, just a short ferry ride from Vancouver. To purchase tickets visit the festival website or Call 1-855-254-WINE

And read what I had to say about last year’s Untapped portion here …

***

Parksville Uncorked / Untapped is firmly rooted in its Island surroundings. Nine years ago a collaboration between two prominent Vancouver Island resorts laid the foundation for this unique event.

Much of Parksville’s appeal lies in its breathtaking waterfront

En route from The Beach Club Resort to Tigh Na Mara, the woman piloting the luxurious SUV shuttle tells me that when The Beach Club came to town a few folks weren’t too happy. The new kid on the block (part successful Bellstar Resorts) was regarded as an interloper. (It was developed on prime waterfront, previously home to the Island Hall, which opened in 1917.)

View with a room: the water views are endless at the Beach Club Resort

Some shunned the newcomer. But at Tigh Na Mara (Gaelic for ‘house by the sea’) the manager decided they would should work with the Beach Club. And together they came up with the idea for a wine and food festival—Parksville Uncorked.

 

A broad appeal

While wine commands plenty of interest, craft brewing soon made its presence felt. And Parksville Untapped was added to the mix. Cue the craft distilleries, the cideries, and more.

Parksville Untapped happens the night before the main Parksville Uncorked event, the wine-focused Swirl. A pair of winemakers dinners top off what’s now a significant three day festival. The resorts take turns in hosting Swirl while the other hosts Untapped.

But don’t think for even a moment that Untapped is a lesser event. Yes, it’s pretty informal and laid back, maybe with a tad less bling that gets trotted out for Swirl. But Untapped sports just the same energy as its wine counterpart.

It also offers a wealth of contrasts in the room, with a slew of spirits plus good bites from local eateries and caterers. Plus, most Untapped packages include both events and a winemakers dinner.

Cleverly packaged, ‘handy’ fish ‘n chips plus slaw from Yorky’s

The three nights are all part of a blossoming Vancouver Island food and wine culture. In fact, if you’re interested, start thinking about next year as it sells out fast. Look for dates soon here.

Parksville Untapped tastes

Here’s a few wide ranging tastes from Untapped that underscore the creativity and quality driving the Island scene.

Driftwood Brewing – Naughty Hildegard ESB

I’ve been known to consume the odd glass of Driftwood Fat Tug. In fact it’s the go-to brew for soothing post wine-judging, tannin battered palates. But I could easily be lured back to this unabashed nod to the remarkable woman, widely thought to have been the first to use hops in beer. Back in the day, beer was brewed with just about anything people could get their hands on. And drunk liberally because it really was safer than the water. Hildegard von Bingen (1098-1179) was a Benedictine nun, and the Abbess of Diessenberg. She used hops as both a cleansing and flavouring agent and also as a preservative. This is a smooth variation on the typical ESB, with a healthy hop and smooth malty component and a hint of citrus. Plus, I love the label, with its stained glass window suggestion and Hildegard holding her hops. Not to mention broadcasting the notion that the first hopped beer was made by a smart woman… Cheers to you, again, Driftwood.

 

Sheringham Distillery – Seaside Gin

This distillery is located just about as far west as you can go in Canada, past Sooke, near scenic French Beach. Here’s one of the cleanest and most well crafted gins on the coast. I’m also thinking it’s (so far, at least) the only one that lists kelp as an ingredient. Made from organic white wheat and malted barley, it’s one of the best sipping gins around. Look for floral and citrus notes, plus a slightly salty background. Also of note, their Aquavit.

 

Red Arrow Brewing – Sweet Leaf IPA

From another newish brewery that I wasn’t aware of before. In your face, take no hostages hop and floral notes, before a nice balance of assertive hop with smooth malty undertones. And yes, another great label.

 

White Sails – Mount Benson India Pale Ale

Founder Brad McCarthy came to beer from wine. He owns and operates Oceanside WineWorks in Parksville. McCarthy felt Nanaimo could sustain another craft brewer and jumped at the chance when the opportunity arose to purchase an existing pub and license to launch an expansive tasting room. This is a well balanced IPA, quite weighty, with assertive hop and a citrus streak.

Moon Under Water – Creepy Uncle Dunkel

The name alone is hard to resist, from one of Victoria’s coolest brewpubs.
As an aside, I’m always intrigued at the number of people who go to a beer tasting and say “What do you have that’s light and doesn’t taste too beery.”  And they’re not even Bud Lite weenies—well, hopefully not.
They should try this riff on a German dark lager. Pretty smooth and not too hoppy. That should make it pretty appealing to lesser hopheads, although it still has plenty of character.

Sea Cider – Kings and Spies

I haven’t tasted Sea Cider for a while but they always impress. It was good to catch up at Untapped. Their farm and cidery on the Saanich Peninsular is absolutely beautiful. (If you haven’t been, there’s more info here.) The lineup is impressive, even more so since they started working with local restos. Because I was weaned on (Somerset) cider, I have an affinity for the drier styles. My pick here was Kings and Spies, crisp and clean but not tart, and really food friendly.

deVine Wine & Spirits – Vin Gin

Here’s an interesting idea from the distiller who started Victoria Gin. They use a base made from grapes from their Saanich vineyard (Pinot Gris and Grüner Veltliner). The gin stood out from this lineup, which included cocktails made by brand ambassador Bradley Scissons. The end product is a very smooth sipper with some definite grapey hints.

Wolf Brewing – Porter

I liked this smooth, and chocolaty toned style with a distinctive dry personality and generous close. I also liked the distinctive label and was thrilled to discover Wolf’s program to actively support the artists whose work adorns their bottles.

Hoyne Brewing- Frank Appleton Extra Special Bitter

A fitting salute to the grandfather of BC brewing, Frank Appleton, who established the Troller in Horseshoe Bay. It was the province’s first brew pub and sadly short lived. But Appleton went on to mentor scores of folks, many of whom, including Sean Hoyne, are today’s leading brewers. This is a lovely copper toned beer with just the right balance of firm hops and generous malt with a smooth finish.

 

LoveShack Libations – DPA Dark Ale.

At Dashwood, on Old Island Highway just North of Qualicum Beach, Dave Paul has fired up LoveShack Libations, named for the small cabin he and his partner lived in while they were building their house. In just under a year they’ve taken his idea to make small batch, bottle condition brews from a dream to reality. Among a few good tastes, his DPA Dark Pale Ale (aka Dave Paul Ale) is a smooth, darker variation on an IPA with decent body and well balanced hop.

More on Swirl, the wine event, shortly …

The post Parksville Uncorked / Untapped: a Celebration of Island Suds and Sips appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Boycott BC wine, eh?

I’m trying to remember the last time a Canadian province gave the proverbial finger to another part of Canada. I’m sure stuff went down over the cancellation of the Cod fishery. But, even given former Newfoundland Premier Brian Tobin’s penchant for the occasional stunt, I’m pretty certain, despite those dire times, there was no actual internecine war waged!

Most likely you have to go back to Pierre Trudeau, the uncontested prince of prosaic proctology. His National Energy Program spawned a popular bumper sticker that originated in—Alberta. It read “Let the Eastern Bastards Freeze in the Dark.”

If by implementing a boycott on BC wines Premier Notley’s prime intention was to get people to sit up and take notice, she’s more than succeeded. Yet, I’m not so sure it was that wise a move. She knows as well as anybody that BC Premier Horgan and the NDP are between a rock and hard place. Any shift in their opposition to Kinder Morgan could cost them their Green Party support, and ultimately their first turn at power in over 16 years.

Also, it’s the underdog who always gets the sympathy. And there’s no denying who the underdog is in this fight. As the BC Wine Institute has been quick to point out, most of its wineries are small, family owned and operated businesses.

Also, Albertans like their BC wines, which apparently account for 30 percent ** of all wine sold in the province. (** As Bill Eggert points out, below, this number is inflated, as it includes ‘Cellared in Canada’ product, which accounts for about three out of every four glasses consumed.) However that still leaves a fair bit of grown in BC or VQA wines. Chances are, those who want them will find a way to get them. Many BC wineries are owned by Albertans or have other strong ties. And wine, beer and other spirits have been known to make their way mysteriously across the Rockies in both directions …

The Boycott Seen from BC

The reaction from BC? ‘Stay Calm & Drink BC Wine’ has been the most common response. And there’s no  shortage of people ready and willing to drink the Albertans’ share! But a genuine ‘high road’ movement has also developed. Several wineries and restaurants are planning BC wine and Alberta beef events. Spearheaded by Okanagan Crush Pad owner Christine Coletta is ‘Farm Friends’, a taste ‘n graze at Edible Canada on Feb 22nd. Participants include 50th Parallel Estate Winery, Culmina Family Estate Winery, Haywire, Liquidity, Painted Rock Estate Winery, Poplar Grove Wineryand Summerhill Pyramid Winery; as well as the Dames Wine project. Buy tix here.

If Premier Notley thought that a little grandstanding would go a long way, she was a right about that. It has. But not necessarily in her favour.

As far as just how much of BC is pro or con the Kinder Morgan expansion, I’m sure there are polls around more helpful than I can be. The last time I checked it was close to an even split.  However, my guess is that the Alberta Premier has unwittingly tapped in a groundswell. One in  BC that runs against KM, and even to some middle of the road moderates. And even elsewhere.

Here’s why:

BC has always been a curious place—rightly chided for its collective narcissism. Not to mention its nonchalant attitude to the Rest of Canada. But if there’s one thing of which BC has become justly proud, it’s our wines. Boycott them at your risk.

A Change in Attitude

The province has turned 180 degrees from a purely resourced based economy to one dependant on hospitality, tourism and tech. British Columbians now place a much higher value on the need to protect their pristine shores—and seafood. There’s also a genuine desire to understand and work with First Nations. That wasn’t there before. Also, a collective will understands the need to protect an endangered Orca population in the Salish sea. Even without a spill occurring, a projected 34 tankers a month does not bode well for the survival of killer whales.

I suspect there’s something less tangible but much larger at play. And it’s resonating across wine’s unique global network. News of the Alberta Premier’s wine ban spread like wildfire throughout the world of wine. ‘Buy BC’ campaigns have popped up all over. If you have the bucks you can rent your own luxury jet to taste right out of Calgary. And beyond BC, expressions of support have come from places as diverse as Quebec to Puget Sound.

It’s a world today that, by necessity, has its finger on the pulse of climate change. And it’s a world increasingly aware of the need to move to renewables and clean energy sooner rather than later.

With more wine producing countries embracing sustainable practices, Alberta’s BC wine boycott will serve to only highlight issues surrounding the Tar Sands internationally. Which, in itself, may not be all that helpful to Alberta in the long run.

The post How Alberta’s BC Wine Boycott Cuts Both Ways appeared first on hiredBelly.com.

Not only does it enjoy the reputation of being among the best of its kind, anywhere, this year’s festival has the added distinction of turning 40. And the present day version is a far cry from the inaugural edition of 1978: it featured just one winery—albeit visionary: Robert Mondavi.

Signs of an evolving world, 2018 sees a collaboration between Spain and Portugal—aka Iberia. That likely wouldn’t have happened even a few years back. But the 2018 nod to Iberia is both timely and beneficial to all involved.

Iberia: A Long History

Iberia is one of few places in the world where people have made wine for millennia.

Even now, when you travel around, it’s not uncommon to stumble across the evidence. Hollowed out stones are often remnants of presses that date from Roman times. In Portugal, the Douro Valley is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. (At Quinta do Crasto you’ll find a stone marker, placed there in the late 1750s.)

Being able to experience the wines of Iberia under one roof adds up to one big embarrassment of riches. It’s a broad spectrum of value and sophistication. Wine lovers will be able to taste everything from Vintage Port to Sherries of every kind, plus Cava and other sparkling wines. Not to mention still wines from across the spectrum. Table wines from both countries have changed radically in the last couple of decades and are hailed for their good quality and value.

Today, most agree: both Spain and Portugal offer tremendous ‘QPR’—Quality Price Ratio.

Make a plan

Yes. Know before you go. You’ll find no shortage of helpful hints here about making the most of wine festival. (They include: don’t forget to spit; and don’t hog the tasting table.) But the golden rule of attending the International Tasting is to know what you plan to taste ahead of time. But do leave some time to deviate. It’s all about discovering new tastes. Plus, please, leave your preconceptions at the door. Be open to everything and you’ll be well rewarded—especially this year! You can download the International Tasting Room floor plan in the brochure from the wine festival website ahead of time.

All of these wines (mainly—but not only—from Iberia) should be on your list. Plus not a few others…

One more tip. Did you know that you can make notes of your favourite wines tasted, order them at the BCLS store on the way out and have them delivered at no charge to your local BCLS store?

See you in the tasting room!

Juve y Camps Reserva de Familia Brut Nature Cava 2014 (above)

Cava to the next level.

This wine always comes to Vancouver when Spain is a theme region. And then disappears. It’s been that way forever. That has to stop! A definite nod to big C Champagne, it’s yeasty and toasty, textured and mouth-filling with wicked length. 91 pts. / Taste it at Viva Iberia.

Parés Balta Cava Blanca Cusiné, Penedes 2010

Anyone who doubts that Cava makers can make a vintage Champagne style needs to taste this wine. While we often buy the ‘regular’ Parés Balta bubble, this is a step up—and the 2010 is showing how well made vintage Cava can age superbly. It’s yellow gold in the glass, classic nutty and brioche biscuity on the nose, mouth-filling and creamy with more than a pleasing reductive hint of ‘gout anglaise’. 92 pts

Sottal Vinho Leve 2016

This easy sipping Lisboa wine is a perennial award winner. It was conceived as an alternative to Vinho Verde, with grapes picked early and alcohol kept low (9.5% abv). The orange toned, fruity but zippy blend of Moscatel, Arinto and Vital is ideal with local seafood such as clams and shrimp. And makes for a perfect patio sipper. Readily available locally. 90 pts.

Heredade Das Servas Sem Barrica Red Alentejo 2015

‘Sem Barrica’ translates to ‘without barrel’  or un-oaked and that’s just what you get with this very fresh, pure offering, with plenty of forward red and black berry notes before a full bodied palate of plum and dark cherry.  Nicely integrated tannins and a fine core through the strong close. 91 pts

Cabriz Dao Encruzado Reserva 2010

Outside of Vinho Verde, Portuguese whites are a relative rarity. But that’s changing, as this delicious 100% Encruzado proves, from one of Dao’s most consistent producers. I’d peg Encruzado somewhere between Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc. Vibrant citrus and orchard notes before a fresh, clean palate with good, textured mouthfeel, stonefruit and tropical tones with a layered and lingering end.

Quails Gate Chenin Blanc 2016

No, it’s not from Iberia. I’ll confess a bias towards this wine because it’s one of the original Okanagan vinifera. And it’s not Chardonnay … I also recall a time when there were some rumblings about pulling it out. Happily, that didn’t happen. For me it’s quintessential Okanagan, fruit driven but still elegant, with up front citrus and honey notes before a juicy, quite layered palate with some slight grassy herbal hints and a touch of minerality. It’s a steal, too. Just saying.  /  Taste it at a Glowbal Affair.

Casale del Giglio Tempranijo Rosso Lazio IGT 2014

This was a pleasant surprise, one of the absolute highlights of this tasting. Vibrant, lifted aromas of red berries, with some earthy hints, followed by a well balanced palate emphasized by juicy acidity and integrated tannins through a slightly spicy finish. I also love that it’s Italian Tempranillo. So it neatly fits in well with the theme. 93 pts.  /  Taste it at Great Red Grapes.

Bodegas Garzon Single Vineyard Tannat 2015

Globe trotting winemaker Alberto Antonini runs the winemaking side of things at Uruguay’s star winery. And it shows, with vibrant lifted red and black berries before a full bodied but still fresh palate of plum and mocha notes, a touch of vanilla and oak spice balanced by decent acidity. If you’ve never tasted wine from Uruguay—or Tannat—here’s your chance. 90 pts

Suvla Sur 2010 (Turkey)

Wine festival is all about discovering new things—at least it should be. What could be more novel than a Bordeaux style blend from Turkey, made right on the shores of historic Gallipoli? Suvla has been making waves here for a few years now. At a January tasting I was impressed by wines from across the range. This Bordeaux blend delivers up front red and black fruit before a well balanced palate of luscious blackberry, raspberry and cassis notes wrapped in firm tannins with spicy hints and a lengthy end. 92 pts.

Bodegas Alvear Fino (Spain)

Alvear is one of Jerez’ most consistent and quality driven producers.  Made with 100 percent Pedro Ximénez, ‘PX’, it definitely sports a pronounced yeasty nose that shows the ‘flor’ characteristics so well, plus some saline hints before a lively, all too easy to drink palate—which is why, really, you should have a bottle chilling in your fridge at all times. Very food flexible, perfect with all kinds of tapas. But best with olives, anchovies and ham.  90 pts   Taste it at Shades of Sherry, Viva Iberia

Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2015 (Washington State)

Although I swear we’re drinking more and more, it’s still tough to get some people to drink Riesling. However, bit by bit, wines like this one from the enigmatic Charles Smith are changing that. There’s just a hint of developing petrol on the nose that lets you know for sure that it is Riesling, before the luscious but fresh and juicy palate of citrus and stonefruit. A great example of how updated packaging (which downplays ‘Riesling’—hard to pronounce for some) can lead the consumer to a well made wine they might otherwise not buy. 90 pts

Altos Los Hormigas Malbec Terroir 2015 (Argentina)

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