hiredBelly.com » Belly’s Best Bites http://www.hiredbelly.com The scoop on great food & wine in Vancouver & beyond! Wed, 09 Sep 2015 20:49:24 +0000 en-US hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=4.3.1 Giardino: Umberto’s Latest Almost Open http://www.hiredbelly.com/giardino-umbertos-latest-almost-open/8336 http://www.hiredbelly.com/giardino-umbertos-latest-almost-open/8336#comments Tue, 16 Jun 2015 19:06:00 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=8336 Umberto: You'll be impressed,Updated: Now Open. See below…   Giardino is just about ready to welcome its first, lucky guests. And judging by the number of enquiries on this site, there is no more highly anticipated event on the culinary calendar than Umberto Menghi’s return to Vancouver. In the past couple of weeks, all that remained of Il […]

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Umberto: You'll be impressed,

Umberto: You’ll be impressed,

Updated: Now Open. See below…

 

Giardino is just about ready to welcome its first, lucky guests. And judging by the number of enquiries on this site, there is no more highly anticipated event on the culinary calendar than Umberto Menghi’s return to Vancouver.

In the past couple of weeks, all that remained of Il Giardino — except for the little yellow house itself — was bulldozed into oblivion to make way for more glass and steel. So it seems even more fitting that Giardino’s opening is just around the corner, hopefully by month’s end, if all goes well in the final phase.

The Tuscan-toned new room doesn’t try to precisely replicate the old. But it does add up to an ‘hommage’ of sorts. Diners will be wowed for all kinds of reasons both inside and out but especially by the attention to detail and little touches.

Umberto is renowned for his attention to detail: Giardino is no exception.

One item that did (only just) survive the demolition to make the trip up the street, the original Il Giardino sign was saved at the last minute and is being installed beside the entrance.giardino:

Other touches include a giant cedar bar and lots of detail in the new garden stonework. The kitchen has been carefully planned and is a lot more spacious than most. While there will be a street side patio on Hornby, the serious action will most definitely be happening in il “Giardino” –the garden itself. But you won’t be able to spy on who’s there from the outside. It’s extremely discrete.

For weeks, people have been popping their heads around the door asking: “When are you going to open?”

“Soon” is the answer.

Stay tuned

 

****

…. Here’s the opening announcement in full:

GIARDINO RESTAURANT OFFICIALLY OPENS ON HORNBY STREET
Umberto Menghi brings Tuscan Italian cuisine back to the city

Vancouver, BC, June 29, 2015 – Umberto Menghi’s classic, signature Tuscan and Mediterranean cuisine makes a highly anticipated return as Giardino Restaurant officially opens on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 at 1328 Hornby Street, just steps away from the original Il Giardino.

“Giardino is a continuation of my passion for the food born in my home country,” explains Menghi, who closed his venerable Il Giardino two years ago. “From farmer to the kitchen, and then to the table, everyone can do fresh, and everyone can do local, but it is all in how you execute the clean flavours, especially with Italian cooking. I have put together my dream team to really echo the memories of my beloved Il Giardino and carve out new celebrations at Giardino. I’m glad to also see the return of some of my old loyal staff.”

With vaulted ceilings, wooden beams, Tuscan tiles, and hand-painted artwork, the space was designed to symbolize the granaries of old and how they represent the storage of food, where every grain is sacred and protected. The main dining area leads into a lounge and then the open kitchen. The restaurant seats about 160, with an additional 80 outside.

“When guests dine at Giardino, I really want them to feel transported into another world and for them to feel like family,” adds Menghi. “There is an air of the Renaissance in the room, very open and inviting.”

A Menghi restaurant would not be complete without a garden patio. Situated at the back is a cortile (courtyard). Diners are transported to Tuscany with its red-tiled roof, stones, and lush garden. The tiles hold further significance, as they are 150 years old, from an old granary. There is also a small front patio by the entrance.

Giardino Restaurant is open from Monday to Saturday for dinner starting at 5:30 p.m. Lunch service will follow a few weeks later.

Giardino Restaurant | 1328 Hornby Street | www.umberto.com | Twitter: @GiardinoVan | Facebook: www.facebook.com/giardinorestaurant | Instagram: @GiardinoVan | Online Reservations | 604-669-2422

 

 

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Cactus Club Wine Matches: Try this at Home http://www.hiredbelly.com/cactus-club-wine-matches-try-home/7568 http://www.hiredbelly.com/cactus-club-wine-matches-try-home/7568#comments Tue, 02 Dec 2014 16:55:26 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=7568 Cactus Club exec chef Rob Feenie and sommelier-service director Sebastien Le GoffScratch the surface of a Cactus Club wine list and you’ll often find what constitutes an unlikely line-up of wines—for what we now refer to as “Casual Fine Dining” restaurants. Much of the reason for more interesting than usual selections (especially at ‘flagship’ locations like Cactus Coal Harbour or Bentall V) is due to the […]

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Cactus Club exec chef Rob Feenie and sommelier-service director Sebastien Le Goff

Cactus Club exec chef Rob Feenie and sommelier-service director Sebastien Le Goff

Scratch the surface of a Cactus Club wine list and you’ll often find what constitutes an unlikely line-up of wines—for what we now refer to as “Casual Fine Dining” restaurants.

Much of the reason for more interesting than usual selections (especially at ‘flagship’ locations like Cactus Coal Harbour or Bentall V) is due to the work of Sebastien Le Goff. Aside from being the group’s service director, Le Goff overseas the wine program. And makes sure that the wines on offer are not only interesting but also work with the food.

It all sounds so simple but Le Goff (who’s also a founding member of the BC Chapter of the Certified Association of Professional Sommeliers) goes above and beyond. He source wines that are a cut above, yet still suit the style and budget at a given Cactus Club location.

 

Meet the Cactus Matchmaker

I was reminded again of Le Goff’s wine prowess this past week, as well as of the group’s ongoing inventiveness under chef Feenie. A media lunch at Cactus Club Coal Harbour highlighted several new tastes.

These include a spectacular Northern Divine Caviar “staircase” to be offered only at flagship locations, as part of an exclusive Chefs Table. (I find it fascinating that Cactus Club now competes with leading-edge independent luxury restaurants.)

Cactus Club Divine Caviar "staircase"

Cactus Club Northern Divine Sturgeon caviar and Acadian Sturgeon caviar “staircase”—paired with Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Brut Rosé

All the wines Le Goff chose to go with Chef Rob Feenie’s plates were truly smart choices, and some were excellent.

Not always the most obvious pairings, they also offer some useful hints for what you can do at home.

 

Perfect Pairings

These matches in particular jumped out…

Mildly spiced Albacore tuna tacos—delicious!

Mildly spiced Albacore tuna tacos—delicious!

With mildly spiced Albacore tuna sushi tacos, Le Goff needed a wine that would stand up to and also complement the soy chili dressing, without overpowering the delicate flavour of the fish. Meyer Family Vineyards McLean Creek Chardonnay 2012 sports just the right balance of orchard fruit and acidity. It also has well-managed oak (only 20 percent new) and a sleek, mouth filling texture. It added the right element of umami for the texture of the tuna sushi. $30 at the winery. 91 pts. I absolutely loved this dish (and the pairing), which you “assemble” yourself. I can’t wait to taste it again.

 

Cactus Club sous-vide, flash frozen halibut with pine mushrooms and chanterelle foam

Cactus Club sous-vide, flash frozen halibut with pine mushrooms and chanterelle foam

For Feenie’s Cactus Club sous-vide, flash frozen halibut with pine mushrooms and chanterelle foam, Le Goff went with Lemelson Vineyards (Willamette, Oregon) Thea’s Selection Pinot Noir 2011. This medium bodied Pinot has red and black fruit up front before a gently spicy bright palate. It also sports distinctly earthy notes that picked up on the mushrooms. You won’t find this particular, pretty Oregonian (except at Cactus Club). Here was a textbook example of how a well balanced, truly elegant Pinot (much more used oak than new) can really show off even white fish really beautifully. It was a delicious combination. 92 pts. (You’ll have to wait to try this one as local halibut is now out of season.)

grilled lamb chops and Bengal curry—over Israeli cous cous, with a mango and mint chutney

Cactus Club grilled lamb chops and Bengal curry—over Israeli cous cous, with a mango and mint chutney

Curry can be a challenge—although you can usually defer to a white aromatic such as Gewurz or a slightly off-dry Riesling. But what to do when red meat’s on the plate? How about grilled lamb chops and Bengal curry—over Israeli cous cous, with a mango and mint chutney, to boot? (This is a generously portioned main course that yields plenty of protein with some really excellent, complex layers of flavours.)

Le Goff hauled out a ‘big gun’ from the Cactus cellar: Ridge Geyserville Zinfandel 2010. It’s a black cherry and anise toned treat with approachable but definite tannins and enough (again mainly used) oak that keeps the wood and toasty notes in check. 90 pts. Curry and Zin—why not? You could also try a medium bodied Syrah. But the key in all these wines is also, very much, their balanced oak profile.

Cactus Club Rob's Banoffee pie

The ultimate, sweet coup de grace: Rob’s Banoffee pie

I’d be remiss in not mentioning dessert: a new hybrid that should satisfy even the most demanding sweet tooth, Rob’s ‘Banoffee’ pie, a mildly uber-calorific indulgence that marries bananas, toffee and hand-whipped cream, with chocolate and salted caramel sauce. Much discussion at the table as to whether it should actually be known as “Bananoffee”! We’ll see.

Oh, and did I mention that every seafood item on this menu was Ocean Wise? Kudos to cactus Club for being, truly, a sustainable pace-setter!

(This post also ran in the North Shore News)

The Olympic Flame frames Cactus Club Coal Harbour, Vancouver

The Olympic Flame frames Cactus Club Coal Harbour, Vancouver

 

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Left Bank Vancouver: Modern French Trumps Classic Bistro http://www.hiredbelly.com/left-bank-vancouver-modern-french-trumps-classic-bistro/7141 http://www.hiredbelly.com/left-bank-vancouver-modern-french-trumps-classic-bistro/7141#comments Mon, 21 Jul 2014 19:24:11 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=7141 Left Bank tuna coneAfter much soul-searching, John Blakeley has decided it’s time to shift gears. He’s shuttered Le Parisien (the latest name in a series descended from old stalwart Café de Paris). In its place he’s opened much edgier and more updated—less obviously French, he says—Left Bank. It wasn’t an easy decision: Blakeley purchased the onetime landmark bistro […]

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Left Bank tuna cone

First tastes: Left Bank’s novel, lighter bites include this delicious spicy albacore tuna cone with chili mango aioli and tempura crunch

After much soul-searching, John Blakeley has decided it’s time to shift gears. He’s shuttered Le Parisien (the latest name in a series descended from old stalwart Café de Paris). In its place he’s opened much edgier and more updated—less obviously French, he says—Left Bank.

Left Bank owner John Blakeley

Left Bank owner John Blakeley: time for a real change

It wasn’t an easy decision: Blakeley purchased the onetime landmark bistro only a couple of years ago. The long-time restaurateur (who got his first job at Café de Paris when he arrived in Vancouver) spent considerable time and money trying to make the new persona fly. But it wasn’t to be.

 

Left Bank: right move

The new spot is everything the old was not. Gone are the staid wood and brass trim, structured menu, and black vested servers: in their place are a more airy, contemporary and spacious feel, highlighted in neutral colours, with large, sash windows opening onto Denman St. In a good way, it’s much more ‘barstro’ than ‘bistro.’

Left Bank lane way patio

Left Bank’s lane way patio, a first for the West End

Most notable is the addition of a brand new, stylish, 35-seat, cedar enclosed and LED-lit patio on the south side, which expands the room out into the lane. It’s the first licensed patio in a West End lane—and likely not the last.

(The LEDs change colour but, for the most part, they were decidedly turquoise when I was there, which is why my food shots have a slightly lurid tinge.)

The mood is indeed casual and laid back, with plenty of emphasis on small plates, the bar and also on happy hour, which occurs daily at 4 p.m. You’ll find plenty of tasty small bites, and wine by the glass from $5. And, for the diehards, there’s still steak frite, although now it sports a thoroughly 21st. century Szechuan peppercorn sauce.

Nothing on the menu is over $22—most much less. And there’s live entertainment every Thursday night. The idea, says Blakeley, is an informal, much more casual environment where locals can drop by for affordable bites and sips at will.

Left Bank chef Watts

Left Bank chef Spencer Watts with lamb tajine, tomato ragout and date cous cous

On the menu…

I had a chance to taste several items from Left Bank chef Spencer Watts’ line-up the other night and was duly impressed, especially with the way he’s blending classic ideas into contemporary interpretations. Watts has plenty to draw from: he’s also exec chef at Bistro Pastis, Blakeley’s popular west sider. It wouldn’t surprise me if some of these dishes eventually show up there.

Blakeley and Watts describe Left Bank’s style as “modern French bistro… with unmistakable influence from the French colonies.”

With no shortage of creativity at play, there’s plenty to explore here, often with an element of fun and unique ingredients. Not to mention a French focused, well priced wine list (with a few good BC labels) and plenty more.

 

Here’s more of what you’ll find:

Left Bank tempura

Crispy tempura beans come with a fireweed honey and grainy mustard emulsion. (Oh that blue background? It’s courtesy of the groovy LEDs.)

 

Left Bank heritage egg custardThis tasty and artful little number (with a morsel of steelhead, dill and madras curry) is indicative of the way in which chef Watts gets to play.

Left Bank crispy Ling cod

Left Bank crispy Ling cod

Perfectly cookedCrispy Ling cod, with ricotta agnolotti …

 

Left Bank bistro dark chocolate tart with green tea anglaise

Left Bank dark chocolate tart with green tea anglaise

 

Details:  Left Bank Restaurant & Bar

751 Denman Street just north of Robson, in the West End, Vancouver

Open from 4pm weeknights, followed by dinner;  brunch available weekends and holidays from 10:30am.

Open for weekday lunch soon.

Left Bank website with full menu and non-blue tinged food pics here

 

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First Bites at Vancouver’s Fat Badger http://www.hiredbelly.com/first-bites-vancouvers-fat-badger/7063 http://www.hiredbelly.com/first-bites-vancouvers-fat-badger/7063#comments Sun, 15 Jun 2014 17:14:57 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=7063 The Fat Badger: making good use of a familiar spaceI knew when I walked into The Fat Badger (1616 Alberni St., Vancouver) for the first time that it would stir my emotions. After all, there are few buildings in Vancouver with which I have a stronger connection than this West End house on Alberni Street, in which Jean-Luc Bertrand established Le Gavroche, in 1978. I was […]

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The Fat Badger: making good use of a familiar space

The Fat Badger: making good use of a familiar space

I knew when I walked into The Fat Badger (1616 Alberni St., Vancouver) for the first time that it would stir my emotions. After all, there are few buildings in Vancouver with which I have a stronger connection than this West End house on Alberni Street, in which Jean-Luc Bertrand established Le Gavroche, in 1978.

I was shocked when Jean-Luc Bertrand died in 1997 but forever grateful that his long-time business partner (and now also my good friend) Manuel Ferreira took over the reigns so ably.  Manuel (who sold the restaurant in 2013) has since gone on to shape the winning ways of Miradoro at Tinhorn Creek.

When I sat at the Fat Badger’s bustling bar last week I realised that I was only a couple of feet away from the (pre-bar) site of the table that we used to sit at over a glass of wine, to chat about the latest inside news in the restaurant business.

With the room and kitchen in extremely capable hands, it was all surprisingly gratifying.

The Fat Badger Game pie: outstanding

The Fat Badger Game pie: outstanding

Here’s what I wrote in the Courier …

FAT BADGER RAISES THE BAR ON BRITISH STYLE PUBS

Badger of honour
In a city where restaurants can come and go in the blink of an eye, you’d think the recent demise of Le Gavroche would have garnered a little more attention. However, the 1978 room established by the late Jean-Luc Bertrand in one of downtown’s few remaining 19th century homes (successfully nurtured until a couple of years ago by his business partner Manuel Ferreira) quietly closed its doors early this year.

The good news? In its place we have the Fat Badger (1616 Alberni St.)

 

A casual shift ...

A casual shift …

Even though we’ll never know what Jean-Luc would have made of a “gastro-pub” supplanting his long running “Le Gav,” I suspect he might have appreciated the subtle irony. And if he’d been with me when I dropped by the other night, maybe he would have been tickled pink at the bustling, pubby feel. And even more  impressed by the food on offer.

The shift from formal French to informal British is emblematic of what’s been happening in the U.K. There was a time not that long ago when the classic British “local” was the last place you’d go in search of a decent bite. All that changed  with a shift in drinking habits and greater emphasis on food — brought home in great part by the fact that more Brits were travelling and appreciating good food elsewhere. In less than a generation “English Cuisine,” once an anathema, has gained new-found respectability.

Rather than emulate “classic” pub fare, Fat Badger chef and co-owner Neil Taylor borrows some of those originals (such as chicken and mushroom pie, Scotch eggs, and fish and chips) but then weaves in a whole lot of delicious, locally inspired plates.

Fat Badger pork pie and piccalilly

Fat Badger pork pie and piccalilly

A few faves: Whiskey-cured spring salmon with pea shoots, dill, mustard and crème fraîche, crispy pork belly with black pudding, colcannon and a trio of Yorkshire puddings with roast beef, gravy and horseradish. I’ll be back for another taste of the superbly textured and flavoured rabbit, duck and squab terrine, and a pint of Fuller’s IPA.

Ed Perrow pulls a pint

Ed Perrow pulls a pint

Speaking of beer, it has opted to be faithfully British, with a respectable lineup on tap that encompasses the best of Fuller’s, Guinness, Kilkenny, Smithwick’s and more, along with a decent range of bottles and cans such as McEwan’s, Newcastle Brown and Old Speckled Hen, with fair pre-tax pricing by the pint or half-pint.

“Ultimately, it’s about people getting together for good food and drink,” says co-owner Ed Perrow. “We’re aiming for a British style pub, with no TVs, no neon signs, a good draft beer selection, some nice wines and great food, using all local ingredients.”

I’d say they’ve nailed it.

Le Gav old sm

 

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Vancouver’s upstairs Gurkha Himalayan Kitchen adds a different dimension to West End dining http://www.hiredbelly.com/vancouvers-upstairs-gurkha-himalayan-kitchen-adds-a-different-dimension-to-west-end-dining/3173 http://www.hiredbelly.com/vancouvers-upstairs-gurkha-himalayan-kitchen-adds-a-different-dimension-to-west-end-dining/3173#comments Thu, 08 May 2014 17:42:30 +0000 https://hiredbelly.com/?p=3173 (Updated May 8, 2014) Upstairs restaurants (i.e. those without any significant street level presence) can be notoriously challenging. In a business where ‘location, location, location’ is everything, you can count one hand those in downtown Vancouver that are successful—starting with CinCin as arguably the most enduring. In fact, part of CinCin’s very success—beyond impeccably executed wood […]

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Taas, a tasty starter plate of grilled lamb with puffed rice, garnished with fresh cilantro, Tim Pawsey photo

(Updated May 8, 2014)

Upstairs restaurants (i.e. those without any significant street level presence) can be notoriously challenging. In a business where ‘location, location, location’ is everything, you can count one hand those in downtown Vancouver that are successful—starting with CinCin as arguably the most enduring. In fact, part of CinCin’s very success—beyond impeccably executed wood fired dishes and a superb wine program—may actually be found in its separateness. That notion of escaping to a different world from Robson below certainly carries some cachet. Nearby Market in the elegant Shangri La enjoys considerable similar cachet and acclaim, buoyed rightly by Jean-Georges, while even Earls (Robson) is another example of an upstairs destination, though with an entirely different personality.

Gurkha Kitchen assorted plates, Tim Pawsey photo

An upstairs adventure of note, is Gurkha Kitchen,  in one of the few remaining, almost intact older houses on Davie Street, near Thurlow. (1141 Davie St., 604-565-7965)

We dropped by with a couple of close friends and were immediately impressed, not only by the freshness of the ingredients and by the affordable menu (excellent daily specials $10-$12) but also by that same sense of escape, enhanced by the gently tweaked heritage surroundings. Not to mention friendly and well informed service.

Gurkha Kitchen Chef Shiva Marahatta, Tim Pawsey photo

When went back to interview and photograph Chef Shiva Marahatta and his business partner, manager Raju Bhattarai (who spent not a few dollars and several months greatly upgrading the kitchen and overall space), we received a crash course in Nepali cuisine, accompanied by more good plates to taste. But we were also reminded that passion both in the kitchen and tableside, with a healthy dose of dedication, are key ingredients to the success of any restaurant.

The most important thing to understand about Nepali food, explained Shiva, is that it’s quite different from Indian cuisines, set apart by subtler spicing and milder curries. Our hunch is that people would beat a path to this warm and friendly salute to things Himalayan, wherever it might be—upstairs or down.

See you there!

Here’s our Courier review:

Gurkha Kitchen Thukpa Tibetan soup

Delicious Thukpa Tibetan soup

There is something infinitely right about the arrival of Gurkha Himalayan Cuisine (1141 Davie St., 604-565-7965) in the West End upstairs space that used to be home to Mis Trucos. On a damp Monday night, even though the newcomer has been open for only a couple of weeks, it’s already busy. Most tables are filled and there’s a humm of quiet conversation mingled with the unmistakeable, intangible atmosphere that accompanies satisfied diners.

We too are soon rewarded as we nibble on our first tastes of aalu kaauli (cauliflower,  potatoes, green peas and tomatoes with herbs and spices), and lekaali taama (bamboo shoots with black eyed peas); and spoon richly flavoured, cooked in broth Sherpa chicken over perfectly textured basmati rice. 

Add in the living room feel of the (TV-free) setting, not far removed from its original incarnation as a cozy West End home, combined with genuinely friendly service—that includes a visit from the chef to every table, and it’s easy to see why Gurkha is already a hit with the locals.

Gurkha Kitchen chef Shiva Marahatta

Gurkha Kitchen chef Shiva Marahatta

“A lot of people think Nepalese is like Indian food but it’s not,” explains co-owner and chef Shiva Marahatta, when we return to explore further.

“We have our own spices and we use less of them,” he suggests, “And we always use fresh ingredients, with almost everything made on the spot”—which is precisely the way everything tastes.

While the plates are very fresh the spicing truly is quite subdued. It truly is not about heat at all but more about subtlety of flavours, emphasized mainly by szechuan paper, fenugreek and cumin, often with garnishes of cilantro and parsley.

Hallmark dishes range from Thukpa, a much celebrated Tibetan styled soup, with spinach, ginger and lemon grass and herbs, to tender gorkhali khasi, tender morsels of goat in a Nepalese spiced (but still mild) curry sauce; and momos, Nepal’s version of the steamed dumpling: perfectly shaped toonie sized treats packed with chicken or vegetable variations, served with chutney on the side. 

Prices are moderate (nothing over $15), with plenty of appetizers and smaller plates, as well as no shortage of good vegetarian options. Utterly unpretentious, with a wealth of dishes to explore  (next week sees an expanded menu as well as lunch service). this is casual dining at its best.

Also coming soon will be wine on tap, and a revamped wine list with more emphasis on aromatics, as well as draught beer—although there are currently a few brews by the bottle, as well as lassi (mango yoghurt).

With its unassuming airs, clean flavours and thoughtfully conceived plates, Gurkha Himalayan Kitchen is not only a welcome new arrival but a serious contender to elevate the overall tone of dining choice in Davie Village.

 

Momos, Tibetan style dumplings, Tim Pawsey photo


 

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Vancouver’s Brian Fowke Marks Four Years at Kitsilano Daily Kitchen http://www.hiredbelly.com/vancouvers-brian-fowke-bounces-back-at-kitsilano-daily-kitchen/465 http://www.hiredbelly.com/vancouvers-brian-fowke-bounces-back-at-kitsilano-daily-kitchen/465#comments Thu, 03 Apr 2014 15:11:47 +0000 https://hiredbelly.com/?p=465 Brian Fowke as forager. Not so rare, this time. Tim Pawsey photoUpdated, April 3rd, 2014. Kitsilano Daily Kitchen is celebrating its fourth birthday, so I decided to refurbish this post in its honour … and rerun the original piece, whose Courier links are now dead.  You have to hand it to Brian Fowke, who jumped into the local, seasonal movement early. And persevered.   From today’s […]

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Brian Fowke: Happy to be back foraging, but not so rare this time, Tim Pawsey photo

Updated, April 3rd, 2014.

Kitsilano Daily Kitchen is celebrating its fourth birthday, so I decided to refurbish this post in its honour … and rerun the original piece, whose Courier links are now dead.  You have to hand it to Brian Fowke, who jumped into the local, seasonal movement early. And persevered.

 

From today’s release—a great deal!

“A lot has changed over the years. We have grown and matured – but tonight we are going to Celebrate likes its 2010! By Reservation Only – join us for Dinner and we will start you off with a Celebratory Glass of Blue Mountain Bubble. And tonight only – we will be offering the $85 Six Course Culinary Adventure for only $40 to thank you for your loyalty and support.

Here’s to the Next Five Years!

(please quote: ‘Happy Anniversary ‘ in your reservation for a complimentary round of Blue Mountain Brut Champagne for your table to celebrate our Anniversary and receive the $40 Six Course Culinary Adventure Pricing!)”

 

Here’s what I said at the time. It still rings true.

“When I go to a restaurant, I never order a la carte. I always order off the fresh sheet—that’s the concept behind Daily,” says Fowke.

“I just want to be out there and doing it, finding the food every day and bringing it back to prepare. The concept is so clear and simple. It fits my notion of what it would take be be in a perfect world for a chef.”

Fowke has always has been keenly focused in ingredients. That was the main idea behind Rare.  However, this time around, the produce and meats are more seasonal than hard-to-find and—especially given the times—the setting is a whole lot more informal than the white linen predecessors.

Kits Daily Kitchen Salmon, Tim Pawsey photoSettle in to Daily Kitchen and you’ll find a small but mouth watering selection based entirely on Fowke’s foraging, that might have taken him to Steveston to buy produce or to the original Bosa Foods on Commercial Drive, where he sometimes ‘gets lessons from older Italian ladies.’

“They’ll ask me what I’m going to do with the prosciutto—and then they’ll tell me what to do with it.” Says Fowke, while when he gets up in the morning his head is always full of recipes and ideas, talking with the producers often brings a whole new dimension.

Fowke is also proud of the way he uses every aspect of what he finds. With Muscovy duck from Abbotsford’s Thiessen’s Farm, he’ll serve the breast on the first day, make confit on the second and then the rest winds up in the stock pot.

“I do that with every dish. Even now the beets we get have the tops on so we can make a beet salad the first day and then use the roots the next,” he says.

He’s also the first to admit that he’s no longer putting out ten and $12 pastas (“It just doesn’t work.”)—and that there’s a cost to working with small lot, high quality ingredients such as a precisely seared filet of Copper River Salmon, with saffron fondant fingerling potatoes and hand picked, wild California baby arugula.

Fowke and his sommelier—German born, Swiss-trained Thomas Rethage (who came for the Olympics and stayed)—also work hard on their wines (mid-premium selections, with plenty by the glass).

So far the response to Fowke’s fresh daily approach has been good.

“Once people understand just what’s on the plate, they also understand the value,” he says.

“The best comment I get is: ‘We can taste the freshness… When people say that, it’s a great feeling!”

Kitsilano Daily Kitchen (1809 West 1st. Ave., 604-569-2741) is open for dinner nightly. Entrees range from mid $20s, with an $85 chef’s culinary adventure tasting menu Thurs – Sat. Reservations recommended.

 

Copper River salmon, Tim Pawsey photo

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5 Very Good Reasons to Dine Out for Life on March 25th, 2014 http://www.hiredbelly.com/5-good-reasons-dine-life-march-25th-2014/6813 http://www.hiredbelly.com/5-good-reasons-dine-life-march-25th-2014/6813#comments Tue, 18 Mar 2014 15:55:56 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=6813 Lisa Martella, Executive Director, A Loving Spoonful and Sheena Sargeant, Executive Director, Friends For Life  It’s quite a milestone: Dining Out for Life turns 20 this year. One thing I’ve learned covering food and wine over the years: No other industry is as generous as the hospitality sector. If there was a way to tally up volunteer hours and value of labour and goods donated, I’m sure the restaurant […]

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Maenam is just one of more than 125 restaurants taking part in Dining Out for Life

Maenam is just one of more than 125 restaurants taking part in Dining Out for Life, ©TP photo

 

It’s quite a milestone: Dining Out for Life turns 20 this year.

One thing I’ve learned covering food and wine over the years: No other industry is as generous as the hospitality sector. If there was a way to tally up volunteer hours and value of labour and goods donated, I’m sure the restaurant industry and its related foodservice and wine agency areas would far exceed all other industries combined.

No wonder Dining Out For Life is now BC’s largest restaurant fundraiser. Over the two decades since it started, restaurants from Whistler to White Rock have raised some $3 Million for men, women and children affected by HIV/AIDS.

DOFL logoHere are just some of the reasons why you should be Dining Out for Life on March 25th…

• With over 125 restaurants participating in the Lower Mainland, chances are you may even be able to walk to a participating resto near you. Some newcomers this year include: The Parker, The Union, Mamie Taylor’s, Chuchilla, Long Tail Kitchen and Maenam. For a complete and updated list of restaurants, visit www.diningoutforlife.ca.

• Whether you go for breakfast, lunch or dinner, 25% percent of the meal cost will go to help registered not for profit The Vancouver Friends For Life Society (www.friendsforlife.ca) and A Loving Spoonful (www.alovingspoonful.org)  .

• You’ll be directly helping people in serious need right here in the Lower Mainland. About 18,000 men, women and children are living with HIV / AIDS in BC.  Vancouver’s Downtown Eastside maintains the highest HIV infection rate in North America, affecting 30% of the local population, mainly women.

• You can win $500 just for posting a food pic on social media. Tag it with the partner restaurant name and @VanDOFL and #DOFL20. There are lots of other prizes too, from Official Team Canada hockey gear, restaurant gift certificates and limited edition 20th Anniversary Dining Out For Life 2014 wine glasses.

• If you’re reading this from somewhere else, you can still participate. Dining Out For Life takes place in 60 cities throughout the US & Canada

Lisa Martella, Executive Director, A Loving Spoonful and Sheena Sargeant, Executive Director, Friends For Life

Lisa Martella, Executive Director, A Loving Spoonful and Sheena Sargeant, Executive Director, Friends For Life

More about the beneficiaries

The Vancouver Friends for Life Society is a registered, charitable not-for-profit society operating an innovative wellness center at Vancouver’s Diamond Centre For Living for people living with serious illnesses such as HIV/AIDS and cancer. Our volunteers provide nearly 1,000 members access to Friends For Life services such as:

  • Over 60 different support therapies ranging from therapeutic massage to naturopathy to music therapy to yoga
  • End-of-life care to home-bound clients
  • 7,500+ nutritious meals served each year

A Loving Spoonful is a volunteer-driven, non-partisan Society that provides free, nutritious meals to people living with HIV/AIDS in Greater Vancouver and surrounding areas. For more than 20 years our volunteers deliver approximately 1,200 frozen meals and over 250 snack packs every week to men, women and children who are primarily homebound with AIDS. Our average meal cost is only $3.55. ALS provides:

  • Over 100,000 meals per year to men, women and children affected by
  • HIV/AIDS in Metro Vancouver — over 70% of the families on service are headed by a single mother
  • Nutritional counselling and meal planning as part of our Wellness Program
  • A weekly hot lunch program to youth affected by HIV/AIDS

More info at:

www.diningoutforlife.ca    www.facebook.com/VanDOFL     www.twitter.com/VanDOFL

 

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The RawBar at Fairmont Pacific Rim: Vancouver’s First All Ocean Wise Sushi Bar http://www.hiredbelly.com/rawbar-fairmont-pacific-rim-vancouvers-first-ocean-wise-sushi-bar/6796 http://www.hiredbelly.com/rawbar-fairmont-pacific-rim-vancouvers-first-ocean-wise-sushi-bar/6796#comments Fri, 14 Mar 2014 16:46:23 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=6796 Fairmont Pacific Rim Rawbar dragon and motoyaki rollsI’m always annoyed intrigued by people who scoff at the idea of Vancouver becoming a truly  “green city.” Maybe it’s just so much an entrenched part of the Canadian psyche: a feeling that progress and innovation always have to come from outside. Much in the same way that nobody used to recognise Canadian talent without […]

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Fairmont Pacific Rim Rawbar dragon and motoyaki rolls

Fairmont Pacific Rim Rawbar dragon and motoyaki rolls

I’m always annoyed intrigued by people who scoff at the idea of Vancouver becoming a truly  “green city.” Maybe it’s just so much an entrenched part of the Canadian psyche: a feeling that progress and innovation always have to come from outside. Much in the same way that nobody used to recognise Canadian talent without prior U.S. or U.K. (or French) success, there’s still some nagging notion that innovation in Vancouver needs outside approval to be valid. Not so.

The latest sign that Vancouver, truly, can be a green leader came with this week’s unveiling of the new and improved RawBar at Fairmont Pacific Rim. I like the Pacific Rim Lobby Lounge. It hops and has a real buzz. But The big news: The RawBar is now 100 percent Ocean Wise. Read: All sustainable. All the time. There have been signs of more intelligent sourcing among some of Vancouver’s sushi restaurants for a while now, with a few offering  Ocean Wise options. However, this is the first 100 percent effort. And that in itself is something to be celebrated.

RawBar's Ocean Wise warriors: R-L, RawBar sous chef Will Lew, Fairmont Pacific Rim executive chef Darren Brown, RawBar Sushi Chef Tak Omi, and Ocean Wise representative Teddy Geach

RawBar’s Ocean Wise warriors: R-L, RawBar sous chef Will Lew, Fairmont Pacific Rim executive chef Darren Brown, RawBar Sushi Chef Tak Omi, and Ocean Wise representative Teddy Geach

I went to the media launch and had a chance to chat with executive chef Darren Brown, as well as with head sushi chef Takayuki (Taka) Omi. The way Brown sees it, there really is no alternative. Originally from the Sunshine Coast, he returned to Vancouver after working around the world in various positions that ranged from heading up the (not too shabby) galley on Merv Griffin’s yacht to executive chef at Griffin’s Trader Vics in the Beverly Hills Hilton Hotel, executive chef at Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino, and many more high profile postings.

Brown says it was Michelin three-star chef Alain Ducasse who taught him about serious sourcing: “being true to the product, knowing where it comes from, doing the right thing and the least with it.” Ever since he moved back to Vancouver from the east coast (originally to open Glowbal’s Coast Restaurant), Brown has been impressed with the way in which Vancouverites have really supported Ocean Wise. “I knew two years ago we had to do this,” says Brown, who adds that his two little boys also figured large in the decision. “I don’t them want to grow up in a world where our oceans are depleted. I want them to be able to eat fish in 20 years time,” he says.

RawBar uses all Ocean Wise seafood such as Humpback shrimp and wild sable fish

RawBar uses all Ocean Wise seafood such as Humpback shrimp and wild sable fish

It’s not easy. Nor is it necessarily a case of simply substituting an Ocean Wise ingredient in lieu of a more commonly accepted, unsustainable seafood.  The RawBar chefs have gone the extra mile to develop their new menu, which is the most locally focused sushi list I’ve ever seen. Ingredients range from Lois Lake Steelhead and Northern Divine Caviar  to Humboldt squid, Pacific octopus, Humpback prawn, sable fish, Qualicum scallop and more.

If you have a chance, head down there and have a chat with Sushi chef Takayuki (Taka) Omi, who hails originally from Tokyo. He loves nothing more than to talk about the Ocean Wise choices that now abound—as does everyone on the team. (I especially like this line from his bio: “When Taka isn’t rolling and slicing, he takes his talents to the classroom and shares his skills; teaching sushi classes for adults and children with proceeds going to the Red Cross Relief Fund.”)

Yes, it’s true, when it comes to Ocean Wise sushi,  some have made a valiant effort. But this high profile and very tasty switch should prove to be the game changer—perhaps enough to kick-start a much wider, even if gradual, sustainable sushi movement. Kudos to Fairmont and to Brown for taking the plunge. Next up: The Ocean Wise Chinese Restaurant Award. Well, we can dream, can’t we? RawBar collage

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Chinese Restaurant Awards: 2014 Diners Choice Winners http://www.hiredbelly.com/chinese-restaurant-awards-2014-diners-choice-winners/6791 http://www.hiredbelly.com/chinese-restaurant-awards-2014-diners-choice-winners/6791#comments Mon, 10 Mar 2014 23:46:57 +0000 http://www.hiredbelly.com/?p=6791 Landmark Restaurant hotpot   Just announced: the winners of the 2014 Chinese Restaurant Awards, Diners’ Choice, as tabulated from 19,612 ballots. The Chinese Restaurant Awards have grown from small beginnings into a hotly contested process that focuses a much needed spotlight on the top Chinese tastes in Metro Vancouver. The awards are divided into two parts: the Diners Choice, […]

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Landmark Restaurant hotpot

Landmark Restaurant’s Geoduck hotpot (CRA supplied)

 Just announced: the winners of the 2014 Chinese Restaurant Awards, Diners’ Choice, as tabulated from 19,612 ballots.

The Chinese Restaurant Awards have grown from small beginnings into a hotly contested process that focuses a much needed spotlight on the top Chinese tastes in Metro Vancouver. The awards are divided into two parts: the Diners Choice, and the Critics Choice Signature Dish Awards.

We probably shouldn’t comment on the integrity of diners / readers choice voting habits in general. Let’s just say the results can sometimes be “interesting,” depending on how savvy a given resto might be…

However, there’s good reason to think that these winners add up to a worthy guide as to what’s worth checking out in a given  category.

No, we haven’t been to all of them, although we can vouch for several, such as:

S & W Pepper House

Peninsula Seafood Restaurant

Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant

The Jade Seafood Restaurant

Peaceful Restaurant

Lucky Noodle Chinese Restaurant

Landmark Hotpot House

Deer Garden Signatures

La Patisserie

Wah Yuen Noodle House, Yaohan Centre

 

Stay tuned for the big guns, the Critics’ Choice Awards, which will be announced on April 23rd—coincidentally, the day after this year’s Vancouver Magazine Awards.

Here’s the Diners Choice list…

 

Best Wonton Noodles

McNoodle House

8291 Alexandra Rd, Richmond, BC V6X 1C3

231-814

 

Best Sichuan Boiled Beef

S&W Pepper House

Three locations

http://www.swpepperhouse.com

 

Best Honey Garlic Spareribs

Bamboo Grove

6920 Number 3 Rd, Richmond, BC V6Y

(604) 278-9585

 

Best Taiwanese Bubble Tea

Dragon Ball Tea House

1007 West Kind Edward Blvd, Vancouver, BC V6H 1Z3

 

Best Egg Tart

Lido Restaurant

4231 Hazelbridge Way, #150

Richmond, BC V6X3L7  Cash only, 231-0055

 

Best Service Restaurant

Peninsula Seafood Restaurant

South Cambie Street

140-650 West 41st Ave

Vancouver, BC V5Z2M9

604-428-9999

 

Best Fine Dining Restaurant

Peninsula Seafood Restaurant

As above

 

Best Dim Sum Restaurant

Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant

150-8888 River Road,
Richmond, BC
V6X 0E1. (604) 232-0816

http://www.seaharbour.com

 

Best Cantonese Restaurant

The Jade Seafood Restaurant

 

  8511 Alexandra Rd, Richmond, BC V6X 1C3

(604) 249-0082

 

www.jaderestaurant.ca

 

Best Northern Chinese Restaurant

Peaceful Restaurant

Three locations

http://www.peacefulrestaurant.com

 

Best Shanghainese Restaurant

Long’s Noodle House

4853 Main St, Vancouver, BC V5V 3R9

Phone:(604) 879-7879 – Cash only

 

Best Sichuan Restaurant

Golden Szechuan Restaurant

3631 Number 3 Rd, Richmond, BC V6X 2B9

Phone:(604) 288-9058

http://www.goldenszechuanrestaurant.com

 

Best Hunan Restaurant

Lucky Noodle Chinese Restaurant

3 – 3377 Kingsway

Vancouver, BC V5R5K6

604-430-8818

 

Best Taiwanese Restaurant/BBT Café

Bubble World Tea House

www.bubbleworld.ca

 

Best Hot Pot Restaurant

Landmark Hotpot House

4023 Cambie St, Vancouver, BC V5Z 2X9

(604) 872-2868

 

Best Congee and Noodle Restaurant

Old Buddies Seafood Restaurant

#1120-8391 Alexandra Rd

Richmond, BC V6X1C3

604-370-4833

 

Best Vegetarian Restaurant

Po Kong Vegetarian Restaurant

1334 Kingsway, Vancouver, BC V5V 3E4

(604) 876-3088

 

Best Hong Kong-Style Café

Deer Garden Signatures

6270 Fraser St, Vancouver, BC V5W 3A1

604-322-6116

www.deergarden.ca

 

Best Bakery Shop

La Patisserie

#2- 6360 No.3 Road

Richmond, BC V6Y2B3

604-270-3092

 

Best Food Court Stall

Wah Yuen Noodle House, Yaohan Centre

3700 Number 3 Rd, Richmond, BC V6X

604-231-9080

 

 

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The Roof at Hotel Vancouver Re-Opens as a Pop Up http://www.hiredbelly.com/roof-hotel-vancouver-re-opens-pop/6682 http://www.hiredbelly.com/roof-hotel-vancouver-re-opens-pop/6682#comments Tue, 04 Feb 2014 16:18:26 +0000 https://hiredbelly.com/?p=6682 The Roof, Hotel Vancouver, Tim Pawsey photoUPDATED, March 25th, 2014… From the announcement: “…It’s official – The Roof is now open!   After several unexpected delays, the doors swung open this morning.   Thank you for your patience and on behalf of the team at The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, we look forward to welcoming  you.” Open for Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bar snacks, martinis […]

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The Roof, Hotel Vancouver, Tim Pawsey photo

The Roof is back! Martinis too, Tim Pawsey photo

UPDATED, March 25th, 2014…

From the announcement:

“…It’s official – The Roof is now open!   After several unexpected delays, the doors swung open this morning.   Thank you for your patience and on behalf of the team at The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, we look forward to welcoming  you.”

Open for Breakfast, lunch, dinner, bar snacks, martinis and more!

Check their website for hours and menu details:  www.fairmont.com/hotelvancouver).

***

The Roof—formerly known as the Panorama Roof—at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver (900 West Georgia St., Vancouver) has now reopened… 

The storied room on the 15th floor has been pressed back into service while dining and lounge renovations are underway on the main floor.

In its heyday, The Roof was the Place to Be in Vancouver: you could find half of Howe Street up there after (or during) work, enjoying the odd Martini, making deals and also drinking in the view. Even if the panorama has changed somewhat, today those views are still impressive, the sunsets just as dazzling—and the Martinis likely better.

The roof, Hotel Vancouver

On the Hotel Vancouver roof itself, with Charles Heidsieck CEO and president Trevor Bell,(Jack Wong photo)

Everyone (of a certain age!) has their own special memories of The Roof. My foremost is the night before we left on our round the world adventure with Charles Heidsieck Champagne, when the hotel saw us off in style.

The sunken bar (to maximise the view) has been entirely refurbished along with the rest of the room. My guess is it won’t be long before it’s just as popular as it always was! The renovated kitchen is under the command of recently appointed executive chef Cameron Ballendine,  a Victoria native who always aspired to be at the helm of such a historic properly.

The Roof sunset

Sunsets from The Roof, still pretty impressive

The Roof: classic plates reborn

The Hotel Vancouver appointment is a dream come true, says the chef, whose stops along the way have taken him to China, Egypt, United Arab Emirates, and France. He’s thrilled to be home and utterly unfazed by the thought of reopening on Valentine’s Day.

Look for a blend of classic and contemporary cuisine along the lines of a “Grill Room” says Ballendine. One the menu: oysters, French onion soup, tempura morels, superb herbed lamb chops, the long-running signature prime rib and Yorkshire pudding, and plenty more. Even though it’s a protein focused list, there will be plenty of vegetarian options, promises the chef.

The Roof Dickens Buffet poster

From by-gone times, a poster for The Roof’s celebrated Dickens Buffet

However, if you have your heart set on reopening The Roof on Valentine’s Day with 100 other close friends, you’d better hurry: the room (as of February 3rd) is already half booked!

The Roof enjoys a special place in the hearts of Vancouverites, who will no doubt flock to check out its polished new persona. Rumour has it, at some point, you’ll even have a chance to catch the inimitable Dal Richards, who played his first Hotel Van gig there on May 1st 1940, in a six week booking that lasted 25 years!

Yes, they’re calling the “new” Roof a pop up restaurant—a none too subtle warning that this revival is temporary. However, the good news is: The Roof has been raised again and new life breathed in, with a smart new look. And it will be available for special events even after the restaurant re-closes later this year.  

For reservations or info call: 1-800-441-1414 or visit Fairmont.com

The Roof reflected

The Hotel Vancouver’s roof is reflected on a downtown office tower, Tim Pawsey photo

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